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Kitten Collars

Kittykit has now got Four New Kitten Collars in stock, these luxury Kitten Collars are ideal for your New fluffy cat. Beautifully soft pink kitten collar from Red Dingo - these are very cute little kitten collars with a tiny bell, fish breakaway clasp and logo on a collar with a lovely soft sheen, perfect for a pretty kitten!

These are very safe collars for a kitten as they have a specially designed breakaway clasp that releases easily so less strength is required to open the clasp.

The tough, yet comfortable Kitten collars are made from fine yarn nylon for a soft feel and are stitched to a very high standard. All the products are strength and safety tested to the highest quality standard in manufacturing terms, embracing design without ever compromising functionality.

The Fishclip buckle is engineered in acetal plastic and really adds that designer detail. It includes a safety release clip, designed to release under a 0.5kg/1lb load and also features a safety bell.
The collar is made from high density fray proof premium nylon webbing for durability and reduced wear and tear.

8mm x 6-26cm (6"-10")
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The nutritional value of homemade Cat

Homemade cat treats is vital for any domestic cat from the naughty and arrogant for calculating Huntress. The last of the most important aspect of nutrition throughout the history of the species. All cats are obligate carnivores. Thus, feeding them meat. All cats including lions and wild cat on your House needs a significant amount of animal-based proteins. Cats cannot digest efficiently and use plant materials as a source of protein as human beings or even dogs. A diet based on plant will lead to the disease, and specifically the heart and eyes. Proteins from animals are essential amino acids. Taurine is a critical amino acid that is not on plants. Taurine deficiency is an important reason for a frail cat. Also, the vitamins are found in animals, such as the liver, which is a natural source of vitamin a.

By feeding the meat, you are better served hydration recruitment. Meat holds more moisture. A cat hunting in the wild will capture prey that are up to 75 percent water. Homemade cat food must imitate a cat of natural nutritional needs have evolved for thousands of years. Cats are carnivores hunt. Their teeth 4 if they are used to grab prey. The skeleton is built for agility and cushioned pads for paws allow silent stalking and less damage while sprinting and leaping orange. Prepare homemade cat food mostly animal proteins. Give cats the same dietary components, with the flourishing of their predecessors.

Supplementing homemade cat treats, need clean drinking water. Cats are not very thirsty creatures. A long time ago, cats were desert inhabitants-kill source of hydration and nutrition. Fatal kidney problems, it is believed, like chronic renal insufficiency resulting from long term water shortage in the diet cat food such as dry foods only. A cat has a large reserve of their kidneys. Signs of chronic renal insufficiency may not appear until most of the tissues of the kidney is not functioning. Have fresh water available at all times with the feeding of moisture-rich meal.

Furthermore, a steady diet dry food adds superfluous carbohydrates. A cat don't need carbohydrates. A surge of oncoming blood sugar levels and may cause diabetes. Cats cannot process carbohydrates effectively as they can be observed between the protein metabolism of glucose for energy. Carbohydrates are known to make a cat's urine alkaline. Urine needed balance of acid pH. If the cat urine is not within the range of 6.0 to 6.5, crystals will develop. A measure of acidic urine on the higher end will yield a growth of magnesium ammonium phosphate crystals. PH lower than 6 can cause calcium oxalate crystals.

Of course, a cat food can not be 100 percent meat. Major will be lacking minerals such as calcium. Calcium is necessary for the proper functioning of the bones, blood, muscles and nerves. Calcium can be found in bones, dairy, and leguminous plants such as beans or peas. Another essential mineral phosphorus is fortunately found in meat. Calcium phosphorous ratio 1.2 parts calcium to phosphorus part 1 is good for the health of your cat.

Artifacts from ancient Egypt have shown that the cats were renowned and laughed. Somehow the Cat House modern seems to wait for this practice. This genetically sleek and sinewy predator, even though easy interesting yarn and string, deserves the best. Your pet cannot control the food environment. However, you can. Homemade cat is created with the correct balance of meat, water, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals to promote good health and prevent the problem of scarcity.

For more information about the handles homemade cat and the health of your cat, visit me at:
http://Homemade-cat-treats.com/


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Your cat has ear mites?

Ear mites are tiny parasites that live in the inner and outer ear canals. They feed on beeswax and oils in a cat of the ear canal causes irritation and inflammation, and are responsible for more than 50% of infections of the ear. The infection usually causes a dark brown black discharge usually refers to looks like coffee grounds. The mites are very small and often are not detected by the human eye.

These mites are very contagious and is transmitted by casual contact with other pets. Although both dogs and cats can have their cats are much more likely to be contaminated.

Some of the symptoms of EAR mites include:

* Brown or black waxy (which look like coffee grounds)
* Head shaking
* Excessive scratching ears
* Scratches, scabs, or hair loss near the ears
* Smell
* Inflammation

Because of strong head-shaking and scratching ear mites sometimes cause blood vessels to rupture the ear, causing an audible hematoma. This is a localized collection of blood that gets trapped between skin and cartilage of the ear.

To diagnose ear mites, your VET will see a sample of the wax in the ear under the microscope. This is called an ear cytology. If there are mites normally appear in this manner. In some cases, can also be seen the mites eggs.

Various treatments are available. Using a prescription topical medicines called ear Tresaderm is able to kill mite eggs ear development. Contains an antibiotic for any secondary treat bacterial infections, along with a medication for inflammation. The recommended treatment with Tresaderm is 10-14 days. A sequel to ear cytology after treatment is usually recommended to ensure that the contamination has been removed.

There are also two products (Acarexx and Milbemite) which are directly applicable in the ear canal. A single dose of these medicines is usually what is needed to remove the infection.

Revolution and advantage Multi are two topical products applied between cat's shoulders. These products are also controlling fleas and other parasites. These products should be applied once a month, every month for the entire lifetime of the cat.

To prevent a new outbreak of ear mites, it is important to treat all animals in the household and to all the animals on a monthly preventive. In a routine control of your cat's ears will also alert you to attack early. Also, you might want to examine in detail all bedding and cleaning your carpet vacuuming.

Copyright Todd Gore. For more information about ear mites and other cat health topics, visit: Tails of A Pet Blogger


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Why a cat behave the way they are

Everyone loves bringing a small kitten origin, but some of the unusual behaviors of a cat can be challenging to understand. Use these information cat behavior facts to help you decode your feline behavior.

Purring
Cats purr for many reasons, they purr when they are happy and when they are in pain as a way to calm down yourself. It is something that they did when they were kittens to leave the mothers know was alright and nearby. They also purr when they are in labor.

Scrubbing of perfume and spraying

This is the territorial behavior. Unneutered male spraying that females do not. Male, if these haven't been neutered in time, will continue to spray. Spayed females may mimic male behaviour, but have little scent in spraying.

When your cat rubbing against your leg, Hello.

Petrissage

When a young kitten, knead in the mother's nipples to stimulate the milk. Cats don't seem to rise from this behavior so that it can be set up on your lap and to knead and zone out with pleasant manner. The moggie is satisfied.

Hypocritical behavior

The first step in the hypocrites is the female cat goes into heat. Males smell the scent from kilometers away. She is meow and howl to the outside, and then squat and arc of low back in front on the ground and back-end upward. Many men are able to mate with her, and she can even have kittens in the same litter from a different father.

Eating grass

Cats eat grass to vomit and expel the hairballs that are created during their stomachs by washing themselves and swallowing hair. If a cat does not have access to grass, sardine oil occasionally to help with hairballs.

Food consumption

Domestic cats have a relaxed style of dining that depends on the availability of food. If you care to properly, it will eat small amounts frequently. A cat has a very strong instinct to hunt, even if food is seated in a bowl. Cat bearing the dead mice and birds that are hunted and killed their owners as gifts.

Socialization
Kittens they fear humans. 16 in the first weeks of their life cycle, it is important to socialize them and teach them to trust humans. Cats are considered off animals and have a strong instinct to escape. A dog is a loyal companion and human master, whereas the cat, the cat owns you, and not vice versa. Cats are solitary animals, but soon established a dominant position in a group that the solution to do their own thing.

Different races have different temperament. For example, a cat, Persian is more obedient than one Siamese cat. However, these events cat behaviour applies to several breeds of cats. Knowing what your cat and why it helps you understand the character and personality of your cat.


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Keeping your Cat from damaging furniture

Those of us with cats that we all know very well that one of the key physical characteristics is the inclusion of little razor blades at the end of their hands, handy for defending themselves against predators but mainly for the destruction of items around your home. Fortunately, there's a lot you can do to prevent the damage, as far as possible. Here are some solutions.

There are three main reasons that a cat will scratch furniture. The first is to sharpen their claws, which feel to keep despite living a life indoors where the only predators are the broom and garden chairs. The second reason is to stretch the muscles as the Act of scratching is actually a full-body activity. The last reason is that it just feels good, so they like to do.

When it comes to stopping cats from exercising all things, it is best to start your work and mild way up to more drastic measures. Start with a little simply sprayed the cat with water every time it starts scratching. And Yes, this works for at least some cats. The difficult part is always catching feline practice. You cannot punish them after the fact would not have easily link the two together, so it must be their paws spread while touching on the Web and to remove nails.

If this doesn't work, or if you're just not around at all times, consider scratching that cover the corners with something to discourage them to bring their paws on, such as double-sided tape, spray bitter or even foil Tin. The disadvantage is that for a time, we must endure something stupid for your furniture, when this point is to reduce the damage. Still, if it works you will be very happy with the results.

The final option is the most serious, and regards your cat declawed tags. This should be considered only in extreme cases such as this is not a procedure which are really encouraged, since they are cut end of the cat any fingers. This can cause discomfort Walking and standing, and sometimes just drastically affects overall personality of your kitty. A better solution would be to simply clip the nails on a regular basis or to attach plastic nail caps their claws.

It seems that whatever we try and decide, cats will decide otherwise. They can learn, but it takes a little bit. Find a method that you are not familiar with, and good luck!

For more information and to learn about cat, cat training, head over to SimplyCatBreeds.org now!


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I just adopted a kitten: what you need to take care of my kitten?

Congratulations on the furry new addition to your family!


Here is a list of essential items that you need to get started with your kitten:


Kitten Food


Grain & soy free canned kitten food and grain free dry kitten food.


Feed your kitten 95% canned food, and complement it with a tiny amount of dry kitten food on a daily basis to give your kitten something to exercise their jaws on (depending on its age) since they will be teething over the next several months.


NOTE: You do not need to be concerned with rationing your kitten's calories for quite some time... your kitten can essentially eat as much food as they like because they will be developing muscle and bone tissue, and will need a lot of calories to do so! So, let your little feline enjoy as much canned food as they wish to consume! It is quite rare for a young kitten to become obese; your veterinarian will advise you about calorie rationing when your cat is approximately 1 year old.


Food & Water Dishes


Although many pet store kitten starter kits include plastic food and water dishes along with a litter box and scoop, avoid purchasing these! It is healthier for your kitty to eat and drink from glass, ceramic, or steel dishes, rather than from carcinogenic plastic dishes - just as it is for us as well! Additionally, most cats have a notable preference for glass, ceramic, or steel dishes over plastic ones, because they do not leech undesirable stale tastes into their water and food. This is because glass, ceramic, and steel dishes are far more easily cleaned and sterilized since, unlike plastic, they are not porous materials: more convenient for you and tastier for your kitty! Many cats who eat and drink from plastic food and water dishes suffer from feline chin acne as a result of chronic daily contact with them. This common skin reaction to plastic is yet another good reason that plastic dishes best avoided!


Your kitten should have easy access to food and water, so if you have a multiple level home, food and water should be available for your kitten on each level


Remember to clean and refresh your kitten's water supply on a daily basis! - Don't let water become old and stale, and definitely do not let water dishes go dry!


Litter Box


A great perk of adopting a kitten is that there is typically no 'house-training' period whatsoever! It is instinctual for cats to seek out a dirt-like substrate in which they can dig, do their 'business' in, and then bury the evidence! The only tasks required of you are:
showing your kitten where the litter box is located,ensuring the litter box set-up is appropriatemaintaining its cleanliness!

A good litter box is open (not enclosed), shallow-sided, large & roomy, is easily accessible (ie. not hidden away in the basement), and not located in a high traffic or noisy location (eg. next to the washer and dryer)


Like the food and water dishes, litter boxes should be available on all floors in the home, and they should NOT be located by the food and water dishes (we don't really like to eat and drink in the washroom, and neither do our kitties! They are particularly hygiene-conscious creatures and those two types of activities do not mix any better for kitties than they do for us!)


Litter


Clumping litter is preferable because it facilitates cleaning the litter box on a daily basis without the build-up of ammonia from urine, and it also enables you to track the volume and frequency with which your kitten urinates ‧ Unscented and non-dusty litter is best, and it should be kept several inches deep to provide a nice comfortable substrate for your kitten.


Scoop daily, top up the litter weekly, and empty & clean the box monthly Litter Trapping Mat ‧ Small plastic, rubber, or fabric litter mats help catch litter bits that are tracked outside the box by your kitty coming and going, as well as litter that gets kicked out of the box as a result of your kitten's digging and burying actions. Litter mats are most useful when placed directly beside the entrance/exit of litter boxes where the highest volume of litter is tracked.


You can buy litter mats in pet stores or get crafty and make your own!


My favorite type of mat are those made of rubber; they're extremely effective at trapping litter, and are soft and comfortable on kitty's paws (which many other litter mats, such as ridged plastic mats are not)! Try Petmate Litter Catcher Mats, and also keep a handheld broom & dust pan handy for those stray litter particles.


Nail Clippers


Trimming your kitten's claws from a young age is a good idea because they become accustomed to having their paws handled, and in addition, kitten nails feel like little needles when they grow long! Ouch!


Small-sized pet nail clippers work well, but human nail clippers also work if you already have a pair. Give lots of praise and treats while trimming your kitten's nails, and be careful not to cut into the pink part of the claw (that's the equivalent of cutting into the pink part of your own nail!)!! Scratching post


Grooming claws and stretching their digital tendons and muscles are instinctive feline behaviors which start at a young age... so it is best to be prepared and have scratching posts in place when you bring your kitten home, rather than getting started on the wrong 'paw' (eg. your kitten using your favorite arm chair for scratching)!


Not all cats enjoy the same types of scratching posts, so if your kitten does not use the first one you try, do not be shocked... try rubbing catnip on it, try posts with different inclines (horizontal, oblique, vertical), different materials (sisal rope, carpet, cardboard), and make sure they are steady posts with wide, firm bases that will not topple over or move around while being used by your kitten.


Toys


If you plan on feeding your kitty a small amount of dry food each day, it is best to have your kitten 'hunt' it by using a kibble/treat dispensing ball - these are fun, mentally stimulating, and your kitty will be impossibly cute when playing with them.


Some examples are 'SlimCat MultiVet' balls, and 'Play N' Treat' balls - these allow your kitten to exercise both body and mind because they must manipulate the balls in order to get the kibble pieces to fall out... cats are natural predators and food that is available in a bowl is just plain boring!


Cats enjoy toy mice, catnip, cat-grass, laser pointers and many other forms of entertainment. Because cats become quickly bored of their toys though, it is best to have a rotating schedule of what toys are available to them - ie. keep toys hidden in a closet and pull out four different ones each week, so that they are 'new' again.


To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com


The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.


Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.


http://www.catdoctorko.com/ is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!


All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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How to minimize stress when taking your Cat to the VET

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Visiting the vet can be a stressful event for many kitties, but by using a few easily applied techniques you can substantially decrease your cat's anxiety levels. The following are some tips that will make trips to the veterinary clinic much more pleasant!

Find a Feline Practitioner

Not all communities have feline specific veterinary clinics, but if you do live in a region in which there are cat clinics, it's imperative that you take advantage of this!
Your cat's stress levels while waiting in the reception area of the clinic will be substantially less if they aren't sitting 1 or 2 metres away from a loudly barking German shepherd dog!

To look for a feline specific clinic in your area, search the American Association of Feline Practitioners website for all AAFP registered clinics in North America.

Find an ABVP Feline Practice Board-Certified Diplomate

Not all communities will have board-certified feline specialists either, but it's always worth looking because if there is an ABVP Diplomate (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) in your area, it is another great resource for you and your kitty!

ABVP Feline Practice Diplomates are veterinarians who have completed the intensive ABVP species-specific (feline) clinical practice residency program (a minimum of two years), and who have successfully passed the ABVP Specialty Exam.

To search for a Feline Diplomate near you, visit the ABVP website and click on the "Find a Diplomate" button. ( http://www.abvp.com/ )

Have a cat carrier

Cat carriers tend to be inexpensive, although there certainly are some pricey models available these days as well. It's well worth investing in at least a regular, mainstream carrier for your cat, since over the course of your cat's lifetime you will need to travel with them repeatedly.

Some cat owners bring their cats to the clinic by placing them inside gym bags, suitcases, cardboard boxes, laundry baskets, and other such improvised versions of cat carriers. This is an unwise decision for multiple reasons.

Part of an improvised carrier needs to remain open so the cat inside can breathe which means that they can easily escape from it. Cats will often seize the opportunity to jump out while they are being carried through clinic parking lots, which are highly dangerous places since they can easily be hit by cars.

Gym bags, duffel bags, purses, and other such items have no firm structure to them since they aren't built to support animals, unlike soft sided cat carriers. Without sturdy bottoms in their carrying bags cats feel unsupported and insecure which greatly increases stress levels and may even cause them to panic.

Additionally, improvised bags don't have nice familiar odours inside so they don't impart any sense of comfort to cats since they are not items which kitties use regularly in the home.

Carrying cats from the car to the clinic in one's arms is even more dangerous than using improvised carriers since cats can escape even more easily in this kind of scenario.

Cats are already tense and a bit frightened after experiencing the car ride to the clinic, and are prone to bolting - many clinics are situated on busy roads, and I have seen more than one cat unexpectedly get away from owners that were intending carry them into the clinic!

Have the RIGHT carrier

Carrier should be large enough that cats can comfortably stand up and turn around... you might be surprised to know how frequently cats arrive in clinics squeezed inside kennels that they outgrew 10 years prior when they entered adulthood!

Carriers best suited for going to the vet are ones with snap tops that are easily removed. These are extremely handy because cats can remain comfy and snug in the bottom half of the carrier through the majority of their exam, and can then be gently lifted out when better access is needed to complete the exam or perform procedures. This method of extracting cats from their carriers is far less stressful than 'dumping' them out of their carriers.

Keep your cat's carrier out & available for their use at all times

Your cat's carrier should not be associated only with use for trips to the vet clinic and other stressful events such as air travel, otherwise your cat will associate the carrier with these negative experiences - upon seeing the carrier your cat's fear and anxiety levels will amplify instantaneously, irrespective of why you have brought it out of storage.

If the cat carrier only appears out of the front hall closet the day before a trip to the veterinarian's office, your cat will quickly learn that it's time to go into hiding until the carrier disappears from view once again!... Chasing your cat down and retrieve them from underneath the bed only results in heightened stress levels for both of you before you've even left the home, and can also result in missed veterinary appointments.

Place a comfortable pad or blanket in the bottom of the carrier.

Your cat should consider their carrier a safe haven, a place that they frequent for little cat naps - the carrier should be associated with a sense of security and their home environment so that when your kitty travels in their carrier they know that they are inside their safe haven.

What to put inside the carrier (aside from your cat!)

As mentioned above, the carrier should be a comfortable environment with a familiar cushion or blanket inside.

Many cats like to burrow themselves and hide under their blankets when they are stressed, so this not only provides them with familiar smells, but also allows them to retreat underneath when they are stressed.

Provide some treats and familiar toys in the carrier to create a positive association with being inside the carrier.

This should be done not only when traveling to the vet clinic, but also on a regular basis at home.

Pheromones!

There is now a synthetic version of cats' 'happy pheromone.' Kitties naturally produce this happy pheromone within skin glands that are located by their cheeks.

When cats are happy and content they rub up against people and nearby objects, depositing their happy cat facial pheromones all around them.

The synthetic form of this molecule is called Feliway, and is fairly inexpensive.

Use of the synthetic version can greatly decrease cats' anxiety levels while travelling!

To use Feliway:

Spray the entire inner surface of the carrier as well as the blanket inside, with Feliway, starting 24 hours before the veterinary visit. Repeat this at least four times during the 24 hour period prior to the visit in order to build up a good coating of Feliway in the carrier. Don't spray the carrier and place your cat immediately within it - leave at least 15 minutes because alcohol is one of the carrier molecules in Feliway and should have time to evaporate since cats don't enjoy the scent of alcohol!

Desensitize your cat to car travel

A significant stressor when bringing a cat to the vet is the transportation which leads to their arrival at the clinic... car rides often put cats into panic mode long before they even set paw inside the clinic itself!

Car rides are an infrequent experience for most cats. Cars are also noisy and mobile. Many cats don't cope well with new situations, let alone situations involving engine noises and fast, unpredictable movements.

Car travel is like an overwhelming sensory assault to cats; it creates simultaneous auditory, visual, olfactory, and tactile stimuli and there is no time during which cats can acclimate to the situation. This kind of travel experience creates negative associations in cats' minds, and they will not relish future repeats of the experience!

To help your cat deal more effectively with transportation the solution is helping your cat slowly adjust to the experience in small increments. Once your cat is accustomed to being in the car, take your cat for car rides that don't end up at the veterinary office so they don't automatically associate car trips with vet visits!

Ideally cats should be acclimatized to travel in kittenhood, but later in life is still better than never.
Place your cat in your car without starting the engine. Don't go anywhere, simply allow your cat to explore a bit and just sit in his or her carrier, becoming familiar with the car's appearance and smells. Provide lots of treats, praise, and positive attention.Once your cat has been inside the car multiple times and seems fairly comfortable with it, then place your cat in the car and start the engine. Again, do not go anywhere, just allow your kitty to understand that the noise of the engine is not a threat, it is simply a background noise.Once your cat is accustomed to the noise of the engine and the feel of its vibrations, go for your first short car ride. Keep your cat safely enclosed in their carrier, take turns slowly and gently, and do not open the windows or have music playing. Drive slowly around the block or just around the parking lot and that will be enough for your cat's first ride.Next, take your kitty for a longer drive. Again, go slowly, keep the windows closed and the car radio off. The motion of the car ride alone, combined with the sight of other vehicles on the road and the traffic noise will be more than enough for your cat to contend with.Again, reward your cat with lots of treats, praise, and stroking once the drive is over but you are still in the vehicle. When you return home, give your cat one of their favourite foods - tuna, liver bits, cooked turkey, or whatever they love most!

Once your cat knows how to cope with travel it won't be a major stressor when you need to transport them to the vet clinic - it will simply be one of many little rides they have experienced and they'll know that there will be a delicious meal awaiting them upon their return home!

Your cat's demeanor inside the vet clinic

When a cat is in a clinic they may behave in ways they have never behaved at home. They may growl, hiss, swat, be generally uncooperative, or even try to bite. These actions do NOT mean that they are "bad cats" - they are simply frightened and are reacting to what they perceive as a scary situation with natural defensive feline behaviour.

Some owners admonish their cats if they believe their cat is 'misbehaving' in a veterinary office. Some go so far as to yell aggressively, tap or smack their cat on the nose or head, or they even spank their cat's rear end. This should NEVER ever be done.

This form of 'discipline' may be a reaction to owners' embarrassment about their cat's behaviour, but it's critical to know that these are normal cat behaviours and veterinarians understand this better than anyone! There is no need to apologize or feel embarrassed about feisty cat behaviour because vets will not think these frisky cats are "bad cats" - veterinarians deal with fractious kitties on a daily basis and are trained to handle scared, aggressive cats in a safe and gentle manner.

Yelling at a cat, or worse, tapping or smacking them, only serves to heighten the their stress levels, and is always a BAD idea. Yelling at and smacking a cat makes the kitty even more frightened and reactive - not only are they now in a foreign environment but their one source of comfort and familiarity, their owner, has become scary and foreign as well.

'Punishing' a cat makes the veterinarian's job of handling the frightened cat even harder. Additionally, it creates a negative memory of the clinic in the cat's mind which means that the next visit will be even more stressful than the last one, and the cat may behave even more defensively.

The best action to take if your cat is upset, is to pet and reassure them when your veterinarian requests that you help them by providing positive distractions during their physical exam. Otherwise, it's best not to interfere until your veterinarian is finished. Once the exam is over, lots of praise, treats, and positive attention are warranted.

Social time at the clinic!

An excellent way of teaching your cat that a visit to the clinic is not a scary event, is to bring your cat in for visits when he or she does not require an exam or procedure of any kind.

Call your veterinary clinic in advance to ensure that it is a good time to visit - you do not want to impede work happening at the clinic if they are extremely busy, and you also do not want the visit to be too overwhelming for your kitty if it is a bit chaotic at the time of your planned visit. For instance, mornings when surgical procedures are being done may be a convenient time - the clinic will not be busy in the waiting room and exam rooms, and your kitty may be allowed to spend lots of time exploring the reception area and elsewhere.

Bring some food along for your cat, and feed him or her in one of the exam rooms if possible. Play with some toys and some catnip, and see if one or two staff members of the clinic are available to play with your cat for a short period of time.

Practice makes perfect

Train your cat to accept certain kinds of physical manipulation that are similar to routine procedures done at veterinary clinics. If your cat is used to these procedures at home, then veterinary exams will be less stressful and will be better tolerated by your cat.

Slowly teach your kitty to accept having their paws touched, nails unsheathed, being groomed, having their teeth brushed, ears cleaned, and having their belly's touched.

Start practicing with your cat as soon as you can - from kittenhood ideally, but training your cat in adulthood can work as well.

To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. c 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


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