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Showing posts with label Kittens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kittens. Show all posts

The Important Stages in a Kitten's Life: How Fast Will Your Kitten Grow By Niall Kennedy

Just like having a child, it can be incredibly fulfilling bringing a kitten into your family and watching it grow up. It takes only a year for your cute little kitten to mature into a cat. It can seem hard to believe but it will happen fast. Being prepared is the goal here. So what are the key milestones for a young cat?

The First Moments

Kittens are born blind and they are completely dependant on their mother. The first stages will involve learning to eat and then growing. The kitten's eyes will open and he will want to explore. At four weeks old, he is romping around shakily with his siblings. At this time he can begin to learn to use the litter box and should start to become a social animal. In the wild, the kitten's mother will start to supplement his diet with dead mice and other small pretty. But, you may want to give him some soft kitten food or some dry food that is softened a little with water.

Six Weeks

He's now six weeks old and he is more than ready to explore the home. If he's indoors, he will move from room to room. A feral kitten will follow his mother when she goes to hang out with the other cats. These cats will still receive mice from their mother, but they aren't dead anymore. Instead, the kitten has to learn to hunt the animal. Those who are eight weeks old will be completely weaned from their mother and are ready to go to a new home.

The Next Months

Through the next several months, the cats will grow really fast. You'll need to get them in to be vaccinated at this time so that they are healthy and strong. They will begin to learn what they have to do to live with their families and learn which behaviors are okay. You can teach your kitten his name as well as a few simple commands now. If the cat has long hair, make sure to get him used to allowing you to groom him, although the cat's coat doesn't need to be brushed just yet.

Sometimes, cats will suddenly develop a bad attitude. Believe it or not this is an adolescent stage for them. This happens when the cat goes from being a kitten into being a mature cat. Sounds just like children, right? This will happen around the fifth to six month and may last until the cat reaches a year old. They will still be playful but may get carried away to play too aggressively. If your cat is not neutered at six months of age, he will be mature enough to reproduce now. Neutering the cat will help this stage of his development go more smoothly. At six months, the cat looks the way he will look as an adult even though he may still become larger.

Adulthood

Just like humans, adult cats will continue to go through stages. But, these stages can be dealt with quite easily. And, unlike that mid life crisis you may have, the cat isn't likely to go out to purchase a sports car at this age!

If you take care of your kitten's health as he grows into an adult cat you will have a fulfilling relationship that will bring both you and the cat great satisfaction.

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Your kitten's veterinary needs the 1st year of life

Congratulations on the adoption of your new feline! And now...


... you may be wondering, 'what comes next?' What kind of care will your newest, and youngest, family member require?


In addition to all of the TLC that your kitten will receive from you at home, there will be many ways in which your veterinarian will contribute to the health and growth of your kitten during their first year of life. It is important to establish a healthy beginning, and your veterinarian will be essential in this process.


PHYSICAL EXAMS:


Your vet will give your kitten a full physical exam, which means that your kitten's heart and lungs will be listened to, their belly (and all abdominal organs) will be palpated, their temperature taken, skin and coat health assessed, and their teeth, eyes, and ears checked. Your vet will check if your kitten is indeed a male or female (gender confusion is not uncommon in small kittens... sometimes the first trip to the vet means that "Alex" becomes "Alexandra!"). If your kitten is male, your vet will determine whether his testes have descended yet. They will check for the presence of umbilical hernias and other common congenital abnormalities, and will look for ear mites and fleas. If any of these unwanted visitors are present, they will be promptly dealt with by your vet!


VACCINES:


There are three types of vaccinations that kittens receive, and they are administered in a series of boosters, typically at 4 week intervals. FVRCP, FeLV, and rabies are the three vaccines types with which kittens are immunized. FVRCP stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia. Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis is caused by the Feline Herpes Virus -1, and causes upper respiratory and eye infections which can range from mild to severe. Calicivirus is also an upper respiratory virus that can cause both 'colds' and eye infections, but which can have a greater severity of clinical disease, including sudden death in certain highly virulent (pathogenic) strains. Panleukopenia is also a very serious virus. It causes severe bone marrow suppression, intestinal disease, and commonly death. All three viruses in the FVRCP vaccine are extremely contagious. FeLV stands for Feline Leukemia Virus, which will be described briefly below.


On your kitten's first visit (8 weeks old), the first of three FVRCP vaccines will be administered, as well as the first of two FeLV vaccines.


On their second visit (12 weeks old) your kitten will receive an FVRCP booster and the second (and last) FeLV booster.


On their third visit (16 weeks old) your kitten will receive their third (and final) FVRCP booster as well as a rabies vaccine (which does not require additional boosters). This last set of vaccines never occurs earlier than 16 weeks of age, because otherwise there are still maternal antibodies present (viral immunity that was transferred through nursing) which interfere with your kitten's own antibody immune production.


DEWORMING & OTHER CREEPY CRAWLIES:


Your kitten will also be sent home with a broad spectrum deworming medication that is typically administered either orally or topically several times at anywhere from two to four week intervals depending on what type of dewormer your vet has dispensed. Your vet may also instruct you to collect a fresh fecal sample which you can bring to your kitten's next appointment; it will be checked for the presence of parasitic protozoan organisms which the deworming medication does not treat. If your kitten's fecal sample is positive for any of these other parasites, your vet will prescribe medication(s) to treat their infection(s).


VIRAL TESTING:


On the second or third visit, your veterinarian will likely recommend laboratory blood work tests for your kitten. Blood work is done for two reasons. One reason is to check your kitten's viral status (positive or negative) for Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV). FeLV and FIV are retroviruses that spread between kitties, and are the most common causes of infectious deaths among domestic cats. Assessment of your kitten's viral status is particularly important if you have other cats within the household as well.


Kittens can test negative for FeLV and FIV during the incubation phase of infection, so if your kitten was tested at a young age, your veterinarian may recommend testing a second time several months later to ascertain your kitten's negative status.


PRE-ANESTHETIC BLOOD TESTING:


The second reason for which blood work is performed in your kitten's first year of life is to prepare for the general anesthetic that will be needed for your kitten to be spayed or neutered before they reach 6 months of age. A general blood work panel helps to assess the health of the kidneys, liver, and bone marrow so that your veterinarian knows in advance of any abnormal anesthetic and surgical risks your kitten may be affected by.


Spaying and neutering should typically be done between 4 and 6 months of age. This helps lessen the occurrence of certain types of cancers, lessens wandering behaviour, aggression, and also prevents reproductive activity, which is very important due to the high population of feral cats as well as the many unwanted shelter kitties in North America.


When you kitten is under general anesthetic for surgery, it is an opportune time to also give them a microchip. A microchip is a fail-proof form of identification, unlike tattoos which can be blurred over time and are only useful locally, and unlike collars and tags that can come off or become outdated. Microchips are implanted just underneath the skin between the shoulder blades, and then can be read using a scanner. If your kitten ever gets outside accidentally and becomes lost, any veterinary clinic or animal shelter will be able to identify your kitten via the microchip code.


All of this may seem like a crazy jumble of medical terms and concerns, but just keep in mind that you'll need to take your kitty to the vet four times in their first year. Three times for vaccinations, physical checks and bloodwork and once for spaying or neutering.


That is the end of your kitten's first set of health visits to the veterinarian!


At 1 year of age, your cat will be due for a health exam and their 1 year FVRCP and rabies boosters. If you have any questions or concerns before the 1 year milestone, you should not hesitate to contact your veterinarian.


To read more articles written by veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit www.catdoctorko.com


The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.


Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.


catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!


All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com/ and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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Persian Kittens Teacup-setting the record straight

You can ask for. ..What is a teacup Persian kitten??

Different breeders Persian Teacup cats and kittens have a different descriptive terms to indicate smaller lines that operate within their cattery.

In an attempt to educate you about what the Pint size pixie Persians will have dedicated this page to clarify exactly what Tea Cup is Persian cats and why have the terminology "teacup" over the years.

First, let me clarify ... "Persians Teacup" is a descriptive term, not a category. So please, don't buy into the false ads or unrealistic expectations of what size could be fully cultivated will look like.

Many Persian breeders will use the word "teacup" as a marketing ploy to sell land, when in fact the ONLY color category that really has earned the title "teacup" is the silver and Golden Persian family.

I found this hard way years back when I bought myself a Blue Eyed Autostereograms white Persian glass of water ". He grew into a huge 15 lbs and had to take a pet home, because they were too large to be developed in any of my cats. Myself to play White Persians for over 20 years ago should know better, but got hooked on the idea would be very small, as the creator said.

If someone argues that it has a white Persian, Himalayan Teacup Teacups or your teacups bi-color can Bank on the fact it is not a trusted location for your money.

So remember ... teacups Persians must display a SILVER or GOLD in their body classified as a teacup Persian.

Just to be absolutely clear, I am not saying that with a silver or White Gold with white is not their small silver or gold key is must be visually the cat to classify the "cat Teacup".

GEGONoS: there is no SUCH THING as a teacup Himalayan!!!

While breeder cannot guarantee the adult size of each color that you can be sure if you have purchased a silver or gold you are within the lower overall body structures can carry a cat.

I think the Golden Persians are often less than silver medals from many, but not certain.

Normal size Persians and Himalayans are usually quite large, cobby and muscles.

Normal size female Persians or Himalayans balance around 7-9 lbs.

Normal size male Persians or Himalayans balance from around 8-12 lbs.

The Persians silver and gold are just naturally smaller cats, but in no way are they grouped or categorized as a "breed or size category" known simply as the smallest and most petite Persian feline family.

Silver and gold Persians usually produce approximately 4-6 lb. female and male around 6-7 lb.

This is not an exact size chart, but merely a guideline to keep at the forefront of your mind when considering a "teacup Persian".

The overall structure of the bones and Golden Persian silver is usually more diminutive than your regular sized Persians and Himalayans ... not to say that you can't get an occasional small framed Persian or Himalayan than other color categories from time to time is just the silver and Golden is better known for continuously producing these small framed against the Persians.

The Persians Teacup is every bit as sound Horn and inelegant as your normal size Persians have only a smaller Building.

The Persians Cup of tea (at least those produced here in our cattery) is pure and not crossed with another breed to accomplish them, of course, small body shape/size, cobby.

Persians Teacup are usually higher in price, not so much because it is smaller in size but because their coat colors is that the most expensive design categories.

The Persians silver and gold have long been known for, and referred to as the "Royals Royce" Persian world therefore should wait for more detailed price labels when shopping for a teacup Persian kitten.

Teacup Persians have a relatively small color selection to choose from: silver, silver shaded Chinchilla, Chinchilla, blue shaded Golden Chinchilla silver.

ULTRA SPANIES Designer Tea Cup Chinchilla Golden colors: Blue, silver and white, gold and white, and blue Chinchilla and white, red, cream cameo factory Shell Shell cameos factory.

Please note: Because silver medals and Goldens (Teacups) is smaller and thinner should never be allowed to leave the creator's home until at least 12 weeks old!!!

All ethical cat breeders imposed age approval for all Persian Kittens teacup.

FYI-all silver medals and Goldens are born very dark then Lighten with age. We have achieved their true coat of arms and the color of the mesh that is 2 years. I hope this has clarified the "teacup Persian cats" and of course smaller sizes on this page.

"Start with honesty to build confidence" .... It is our philosophy.

Please keep in mind if you are looking for a smaller pot, will most likely want a silver or gold Persian. However, it is important to remember .... It is not "thumbnail cats" is simply known as the most petite and small framed.

Visit our Teacup Persian kittens for sale page to see what we have currently available.

http://www.dollfacepersiankittens.com/


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Raising Orphan Kittens


When the mother of a kitten has died or has abandoned him, the kitten may need hand raising. In feral cats, the reason for them being taken away is maybe for taming. Kittens should only be taken from their mother after 6 weeks of age if possible. For taming wild kittens, around 4 weeks because taming becomes harder as they grow older. Young kittens need their mommy's milk for antibodies and nutrition so it is best that the mother feed her kittens as long as possible. Passive immunity normally lasts until about the kittens are 6-14 weeks. Orphans are most vulnerable to diseases since they do not have that protection.


Find a foster mother cat


Orphans need a foster feline mother to have a good chance of survival. Cats usually feed kittens other than their own so try finding one by calling vets, animal shelters, breeders or the cat people you know.


You must devote considerable amount of energy and time in taking care of a kitten if you decide to feed him yourself before weaning age. But still, that does not guarantee survival since the younger the kitten is, the more fragile he is. He may not survive no matter how good the care is without a feline mother to feed him.


Warmth and First Aid


When you find an abandoned kitten, the first thing you must do is to protect him from chill. Place him under blankets or next to your skin for warmth. Young kitten's energy is necessary for growth and yelling for more food which is why there is not much left for heat generation. At first, the mother and siblings would give the kitten a good amount of warmth. On their first week, they should be kept at 88-92 degrees F. The following week, around 80 degrees or so would be fine. Once they reach 5 weeks and above, a lower room temperature is tolerable.


Take the kitten to a vet if possible, his general condition needs to be checked out. Without a mother, a kitten may become dehydrated very quickly and may need fluids under his skin. A sign of dehydration in a kitten is when he has very little energy and appetite. This is probably due to lack of fluids or diarrhea. Stools must also be tested for parasites or worms. The vet can have plenty of advice on hand raising kittens and the needed supplies so you better not skip this step.


Upon reaching home, provide warmth for the kitten by placing him in an isolated, draft free, warm place. You can feed him by using an eyedropper or nursing bottle which is available at the vet. Be very careful not to force feed the kitten when using an eyedropper. Let him suck the fluid at his own pace so as not to fill his lungs with milk and cause pneumonia. The bottle method is best once he is old enough to suckle. A company named Catac even designed a kitten nurser which keep air bubbles out of the baby's tummy.


Don't forget to sterilize all utensils before feeding the kitten. To feed the little one, place his tummy down on a towel or textured surface to which he could cling to. With the tip of your finger, carefully open his mouth, then slip the nipple in between his jaws. Keep a light pull every now and then to encourage him vigorous sucking. If the kitten suddenly aspirates milk into his lungs, immediately hold him upside down until the choking stops. Seek veterinary assistance if the kitten is not strong enough to suckle.


Baby kittens must be fed every 3 to 4 hours and the milk should be warmed to body temperature. For recommended feeding amounts and feedings per day, check the package. The number of daily feedings he should receive is determined by the kitten's age.


Signs to look up when the baby kitten had enough formula are, his tummy will be rounded and bubbles will form around his mouth. Burp him by holding him upright against your shoulder, patting him lightly on the back. Just like humans, baby kittens must burp after each meal. Never overfeed kittens for it can result to diarrhea or other problems.


Kittens with anemia or those lacking appetite may need vitamins and minerals supplement such as Pet-Tinic, which is available at the vet and pet food stores. This will rebuild his systems and stimulate his appetite. Just follow the directions indicated on the bottle and give it through a dropper or by adding it to his food.


To ensure your kitten is growing properly, weigh him frequently. If he is growing at an incredible rate, it's a sign he is thriving!


Stimulation


The kitten's biological mother takes care of her kitten in many ways than we know. She stimulates her baby kitten's bladder and bowels by licking his abdomen. The surrogate mother cat must carefully rub the baby kitten's tummy with a moistened cotton ball with warm water. Do not overdo it, rub only enough to stimulate the kitten to discharge waste. Watch out for chafing which is an indicator that you are rubbing too hard.


Keep the baby kitten and the area clean. Wash their fur all over as the mother would do, using short strokes with a barely damp cloth. This gives them a feeling of attention and well-being too. If the kitten has caked stool on his fur due to diarrhea, it is best to wash him in warm water. Do this quickly so as not to make the baby kitten cold. Pat him dry.


The kitten may feel frustrated by the lack of his mother's breast and cause him to suckle his litter mate's body parts which may result to irritations. Satisfy his oral need by caressing his mouth with a soft cloth or your finger.


Fleas


As soon as abandoned kittens are found, they must be cleaned and get rid of fleas to avoid Flea anemia. Flea anemia can interfere with your attempt to save any abandoned kitten and fleas carry tape worm eggs. There are flea sprays at the vet which can be used on kittens. Adams flea spray has been found safe to use on kittens and effective in killing fleas. Once the kitten has rid of fleas, bathe him in warm water with gentle soap or surgical soap if there are flea sores present. Dry him immediately to avoid getting chill. You can also use hair dryer if the kitten is 1-3 weeks of age. Be careful not to blow in their face and keep the level of heat tolerable. Older kittens are usually scared of the noise of the hair dryer, you may opt to just towel dry them and then place them in a container in a warm place such as next to a refrigerator. You may also put the towel dried kitten inside a pet carrier and then use the hair dryer letting in some warm air to the bag.


Weaning


You may begin weaning the kitten at the age of 4 weeks if necessary. You may begin by providing him formula in a bowl. Later on, gradually introduce solid foods. Some baby foods that work well are strained baby food or Hill's brand. You can also moisten dry kitten food with water or formula because young kittens cannot chew dry kitten food. This takes time so do not expect him to be weaned right away.


Reduce the bottle feedings as he eats more often from the bowl. You can also give canned kitten food to introduce solid food to the kitten. Check the instructions on the container. Much of what is sold in supermarkets is junk food so try buying high quality food from the vet or pet food stores. Changes in foods or diet may cause diarrhea which can be life threatening to a baby kitten so it is important to keep an eye on the stools.


Litter Box Training


The perfect time to introduce the baby kitten to litter box is on his 4th week of age. Place him in the litter box after every meal. Show him how to scratch in the litter by taking his paw and start digging the sand or litter. He will surely catch on quickly.


Love and Attention


The baby kitten needs emotional closeness aside from the food and warmth that you give. Let him snuggle with you and pet him more often. Experts say that hand raised kittens show greater loyalty, deeper affection to owners, and show higher intelligence. Lots of handling for kittens make them easier to train as well.


Milestones


A kitten usually weighs 2-4 ounces at birth. He should double in body weight by the end of his first week. On his 8th day, he should open his eyes for the first time. For two more weeks his eyes will remain blue. The real eye color will only appear until he is about 3 months old. The ears will begin to stand up on his second week. He will try to walk on his third week. On the fourth week, the kitten will start playing with his litter mates and develop his teeth. As to the timing of the necessary vaccinations, go check it with your vet. On 8th week, the kitten should be ready for adoption and if she/he's in good health he can be spayed and neutered.


Health Problems


Adopted orphan kittens are very vulnerable to diseases. Take them to the vet immediately at the first symptom of abnormal behavior or loss of appetite. Upper respiratory infections and colds are caused by viruses which claim many kittens every year. Chlamydia is one of these organisms which cause permanent eye damage to kitten's eyes. It could result to blindness if bacteria invade the infected eye. The eyeball can be badly scarred even by a lesser infection.


Worms, food changes, and even overfeeding could result to diarrhea. The result of this is dehydration if it is not managed properly and it could be fatal. Feline distemper is a chronic danger to baby kittens as well, especially those babies who did not have their mother's antibodies. It is an airborne, very contagious fatal disease.


A Final Word


Raising and caring for an orphan baby kitten is a hard work, even the most conscientious foster mother may lose the baby kitty. The foster mother should not blame herself should the baby kitten die, nor should she accept the credit if the kitty thrives. A baby kitten is most likely to die at birth, in his 1st week, or while weaning. But you have a good chance of raising poor orphaned kittens with accurate information and the ability to care.



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