In internal or external, which is best for your Cat

Cats are unique to dogs more often, allowing your cat wandering neighborhood night is perfectly acceptable. But I have decided either to your cat is a cat only indoors or allow them some outdoor freedoms? Here are some things you should consider.

Most cats will want to go out no matter what you choose for them, but some, especially cats that have been out, it can make things even more complicated. It is almost as if they are not particularly care about your judgment either way. For this reason, the best you can do for yourself and your concern is to maintain the cat coherency since birth, or at least from the point at which the vote. It is easier to convince a cat kept indoors at all times, if you have retaining means since it was a kitten.

The upsides to make a cat a feline indoor is quite large. Firstly, this will reduce many of the risks to your cat's life. Cars, coyotes and based on cat diseases are common in your home. Because of this, indoor-only cats are, on average, a much longer life than a cat who lived outside of all his life, or even a part of. Indoor cats are also cleaner and have virtually no chance of dragging a dead mouse or unwanted birds or in the dirt and monitoring inside your carpet.

However, keeping your cat indoors at all times will increase the need to clean the litter box, you will not have any other option for the care of their waste. Outdoor cats have a much more "natural" places to do business, but an indoor only cat has only one (hopefully not also including your sneakers). Also the outdoor cats are generally more delicate as it is far more active than cats indoors. This is mainly due to the confinement can provide a home, as well as the increased level of activities of the outside world.

The hard option then it is really all up to longevity, although nothing guarantees a long life, regardless of what to do. I've seen indoor only cats ill and passing away at earlier ages and only outdoor cats stay around for years. My personal sad experience has an internal/external cat moved indoor-only cat who passed away in only seven years-aged rapidly from one night and drinking some anti-freeze someone had placed on their doorstep, because he was unhappy with all the cats in the neighborhood. Basically, there is no telling what will happen.

Therefore, to look at the options that you have at your disposal and consequently the plan. Your cat will be happier inside or outside? Do you live near a busy street or the country? Do you mind dead snake to your doorstep again? Just remember to choose wisely.

For more information about cat and cat training, head over to SimplyCatBreeds.org now!

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Steps to make your own Cat bed

Cats spend most of their days sleeping. That is why it is important that you provide them with a bed that fits your needs.

You may find it convenient to buy a ready-made bed for your pet. But, of course, you can save more money, and you can make the best bed for your cat, if you can create one by yourself.

You will be able to build one that has the correct size for your cat to fit comfortably. Also, there is the advantage of being able to choose the material that you know are safe to use. Additionally, you can show your creativity with the bed you are.

Here are the steps on how to make a cat bed

Project. You need to know how big the cat. This is so you can begin designing a plan for the bed side. The dimensions must be accurate, so that the bed will be exactly the right size for your cat. You do not want to be too small and you don't want to be too long either.

Sleeping behaviors of your cat should also be considered. Some cats like to sleep in a crouching position, while there are others who sleep with their bodies stretched out. These will largely affect the decision about how much you will make your cat's bed.

Your plans will also include determining what material to use. Wood is the most affordable hardware and is also the easiest way to manipulate even by people who don't have extensive knowledge of carpentry. However, you will need a huge effort. Some people are not too much effort and use an already-made car to serve as the bed itself. You can also do so. Planning can include even the duty to decide what color you are the bedding.

Gather necessary materials. After you've put together what is going to make the bed, you will need your hardware. Need to buy the wood if you decided to do a small bed wood. You should find baskets or Wicker growers if you decide to use such material.

Pillows, a layer of foam or even soft cloth can be enough to serve as the mattress for bed cat. You also have another element which would serve as a small pillow for your cat.

Measure and cut. What are the elements that you need to Measure and cut? Well, if you are using the wood, you will need to cut the pieces into dimensions that you have. Foam/pillows/cloth must also be reduced to the desired size that will fit in the bed.

Sew and paste. It is necessary to sew pieces of cloth that you've chosen to use. This is so that it does not get crumpled and thus destroy the bed. These can also be pasted together as this is a quick solution. But, to be sure you are using the glue is toxic for your pet.

Ella Hall enjoys writing for Thecatpetshop.com, which sells cat bed and cat carrier, and a host of additional products.

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The reasons people give up their Cat

I am a cat owner, so I know what I want to attach a furry little Companion. I've also volunteered at an animal shelter, so I have had the opportunity to see what it is like the decision to surrender your pet. Nine times out of ten is not the decision is easy. But I understand some people still have grounds to the cat. Here you will find only some of these reasons.

Moving: a long time, the decision comes down to something as simple as moving but we need to be able to take your cat with you. Suppose you can get a job in another city and you need to move, but only the partition on which you can find does not allow pets. Comes in having your cat to surrender, provided that you can't find a family member to care until you can find another apartment pet friendly.

Change in lifestyle: Let's say baby, but we know that your cat is the type of funny and effective enough to scratch and bite anything. This is a hazard to the newborn baby, your cat, so the choice is based on the need to look for your child's well-being. Another instance is if you have a medical condition where you simply cannot care for your cat. These are perfectly reasonable statements for your cat to a shelter delivery.

Behavior problems: sometimes you discover that it is not going to vanish with time cat negative behaviors, but instead becoming worse. It is very common to have a cat that meows out loud in the middle of the night, apparently without reason, leading to sleepless nights and general malaise and discontent with your pet. The time required to train the cat may be unavailable or the money needed could be more than they can afford to be the only option left to ask for approval. This is not an issue that lazy, it is just a matter of Control priorities. If you are working two jobs and need sleep, but not at any time of day to spend with your cat, leading them to pester you at night, you must place the cat to a new home, a home to devote the necessary time to make your cat just makes sense.

Most cat owners are given the option, you will always choose to keep the cats around rain or shine. But we cannot always afford. Keep an open mind for owners of domestic animals such as cats, their surrender would be a situation that you yourself find it later in your life.

For more information about cat or tips about cat health, head over to SimplyCatBreeds.org now!

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How can your Cat tablets

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So, you and your cat are back home after a visit to the vet. You have two bottles of medication in your hand and instructions to medicate your cat three times (eek!) per day. You aren't quite sure how your cat will feel about this plan. You anxiously glance at your kitty, now curled up comfortably on the couch. Kitty opens one eye which boldly stares back at you... the look in kitty's eye is unmistakable. It says, "just you try to medicate me, Human. By the time you've made your last futile attempt, YOU will be the one needing a visit with the doctor and some medication." But, don't panic! There are lots of tricks available to help you medicate your cat in an effective, relaxed, and danger-free manner!

Pill Pockets

Pill pockets work best for food motivated kitties. They come in two tasty flavors, salmon and chicken.

Pill pockets are hollow, soft treats into which you place the tablet or capsule and then 'mush' the opening of the pill pocket closed so that the medication does not fall out.

Disadvantages to pill pockets are that cats that are not food motivated are unlikely to voluntarily eat them.

Another disadvantage is that if your cat accidentally bites into the pill pocket and tastes an unpalatable medication inside, they will be unlikely to ever be fooled by pill pockets again! Also, some cats will learn to eat all around the pill, consuming just the pill pocket and leaving the medication behind.

Flavored Chews

For long term medication options, flavored chewable treats are a very pleasant option.

Medicated chews need to be compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and do tend to be more expensive than the regular drug.

Compounding flavored chews works best for medications that are not particularly strong tasting and unpleasant, otherwise cats may still detect the taste of the medication and reject the chew treat (ie. many antibiotics cannot be successfully made into flavored chews).

To figure out what flavor your cat prefers before ordering a large quantity of medicated chews, ask your veterinarian to try non-medicated samples: generally flavored chews come in varieties such as tuna, chicken, liver, shrimp, seafood medley, and beef.

Flavored Liquids

Flavored medications in liquid form also need to be specially compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and are also available in a variety of flavors palatable to cats.

Many people find liquids easier to administer to their cats than pills.

Liquids (non-flavored)

Many medications come in liquid form as well as pill form.

Liquids are not necessarily any more tasty in comparison to their pill counterpart (most are sweetened for human consumption and are banana or cherry flavored - since cats cannot taste sweetness, all that they taste is the flavor of the medication itself), but many owners find liquids easier to administer than pills.

Ask your veterinarian if there is a liquid form of the medication they have prescribed if you are having trouble giving your cat the pill form.

Keeping the liquid in the fridge (unless the medication specifically cannot be kept at such a cool temperature) may help decrease the distastefulness of the medication and make it less unpleasant for your cat to swallow.

Clear Gel Capsules

Many medications have very strong, unpalatable tastes - when these medications are prescribed in tablet form they can be particularly unpleasant, and often chalky, for cats to swallow.

Particularly when a medication is being administered long term, placing tablets into clear, flavorless gel capsules can be an excellent idea - your cat will likely resent the entire procedure much less if it does not involve an unpleasant taste that makes he or she salivate for ten minutes afterwards.

Clear gel capsules can typically be obtained at your veterinarian's office, and if they are not routinely kept in hospital, then they can likely order some in particular for you.

Some tablets may be too large to fit inside the gel capsules, so you may want to purchase a pill splitter at your pharmacy in order to cut up the tablets into halves or quarters that will fit more easily into the gel caps.

The drawback to using gel capsules is that they start to dissolve as soon as they touch moisture - ie. as soon as they are inside your cat's mouth!

So, the key here with gel capsules is to ensure that you have your pilling technique finessed and to always have extra water syringes nearby so that you can flush the capsule down with more water if needed (ie. if the capsules becomes 'stuck' to your cats tongue or roof of the mouth).

Pilling Techniques & Steps:

Step I: Organize Supplies

It is essential to everything you need prepared and ready to gobefore you approach your kitty to administer their medication. Have your pills ready on your right side (or if you are left-handed, have them on your left side). Have your syringes filled with water ready alongside the pills

It is IMPERATIVE that you administer water to your cat to help him or her swallow their medication. It is unfair and unsafe to assume that cats can swallow their medication without the help of water, and this is a topic that is all too often neglected when educating owners on how to medicate their cats. Studies have proven that cats that are forced to 'dry swallow' their medications do not successfully swallow their medications all the way down the length of their esophagus - in fact, after 5 minutes post dry swallow, only 36% of cats had the pills in their stomachs.

The esophagus is a very thin, delicate tissue, and it is not protected from caustic substances by a thick mucus layer as the thick, tough stomach walls are.

This means that when medications dissolve within the esophagus, as they do when cats are forced to dry swallow them, the esophagus is vulnerable to sustaining serious and painful injury from the dissolving medication.

Unfortunately, your cat cannot alert you to the fact that this is happening, and that they are experiencing painful 'heartburn,' but it is the reality of forcing them to swallow medications without water - most cats will simply withdraw after being pilled, and many owners assume that this is a result of the stress of the pilling event, and do not recognize it as an expression of pain.

Step II: Methods of Restraint - "Kitty Burrito" Technique

It is important to know that frequently 'less is more' with cats when it comes to restraint and physical manipulation. The more practice you get at administering medications to your cat, the easier it will become. So have patience, and remember that practice will make perfect. As you become more proficient at this task, the less stressful the event will be for your cat, the less protestation they will make, and as a result it will become even easier to accomplish.

Occasionally owners are anxious about restraining their cats and ensuring that their kitty cannot escape while they are administering their medication(s). One method of restraining your cat effectively and in a manner that does not increase his or her stress level, is by making a 'kitty burrito.' (Ultimately, it is best if minimal restraint is used, but during the learning curve, it is acceptable to ensure that your cat cannot escape from you and further complicate the process.)

To use the 'kitty burrito' technique, follow these steps:

Place a towel on the floor in front of you.

Place your cat on the towel so that they are lying down (upright), facing away from you.

Wrap the towel around your cat just like you would wrap a present or a burrito, leaving your cat's head uncovered, but both forelimbs snugly tucked inside the towel.

Place your feline 'burrito' on the floor between your knees facing away from you. Cats enjoy feeling snug and secure, and wrapping them in a towel will decrease the amount of struggling they will do.

Minimal Restraint Technique

If not using the 'burrito' technique, simply ensure that your cat is facing away from you, and then approach your cat from behind. This can be done while your cat is on a table, or on the floor, but generally speaking it is easiest when accomplished sitting on the floor with your cat.

Place one hand on your cat's chest so that they do not run away while you are getting organized. The reason you want your cat to be facing away from you is because this way they have nowhere to back into (because they will back into you), and with one hand lightly on their chest, they cannot run away either.

Step III: Opening Your Cat's Mouth

My Favorite Technique

Gently tilt your cat's head upward. Place your left hand (that was previously on your cat's chest) under their chin and apply slow and steady pressure in an upward motion.

When your cat is looking up at you, place your right index fingertip between your cat's lips and you will be able to feel a gap between their upper and lower jaws where there is a space between their teeth. The space is just behind their canine teeth and in front of their premolars. f you poke your finger in this small space, your cat will automatically open up their mo

When your cat opens their mouth for that split second, with your right hand (which has the pill ready), pop the pill as far back into the throat as possible.

Traditional Technique

With your left hand grasp your cat's upper jaw and gently pull their head (and upper jaw) upward.

Your thumb is placed on the right upper jaw while your index and middle finger hold your cat's left jaw.

Your fingers should be just behind your cat's canine teeth when grasping their upper jaw.

With your right hand pick up your cat's pill between your thumb and forefinger, and then placed your middle finger on the front aspect of your cat's lower jaw.

Your middle finger is used to pry your cat's jaws apart by placing it on your cat's lower incisors - cats' incisors are small and dull, so you will not be injured by this maneuver.

Apply gentle but steady pressure on your cat's lower jaw until their mouth is open.

With your cat's mouth open, quickly drop the pill as far back as you can to the base of the tongue.

Note: The traditional technique requires a bit more physical manipulation, which is why I prefer the previous technique ("My Favorite Technique").

"Traditional" and "Favorite" Techniques with Pill Popper

Many people are hesitant when it comes to the "dropping the pill down to the base of the tongue" part of pilling their cats, and understandably so! If you fear for the safety of your fingers, or your kitty is simply a pro at preventing you from placing the pill far enough inside their mouth, then the pill popper may quickly become your favorite new acquisition. The pill popper is a long, thin plastic tube with a rubber tip on one end and a stylet inside of it.

Place the pill inside the rubber tip.

Use either technique to open your cat's mouth, and then gently insert the pill popper into your cat's mouth and push the stylet. The stylet handle is on the opposite end of the pill popper from the rubber tip and, when pushed, it pops the pill out of the rubber tip and into your cat's mouth.

Notes on All Three Techniques

It takes practice to gain the confidence required to pop the pill all the way to the base of the tongue in your cat's mouth! It is normal to feel slightly skittish about sticking your fingers so far in there, but the more you practice, the less frightening it will seem, and you will quickly come to appreciate why the pills must be placed all the way back there; they will not be spat out! So don't worry if pilling your kitty doesn't come naturally at first... both you and your cat will grow accustomed to the routine with time and practice.

Step IV: Water to Swallow the Pill

Now that the pill is successfully (hopefully!) at the back of your cat's mouth, place your left hand back underneath their chin and apply gentle upward pressure. Your cat's jaw must remain parallel to the floor because if your cat gets their head down, they can spit out their pill more easily.

With the lower jaw held gently closed, and their head parallel to the floor or slightly upturned, pill expulsion is less likely to occur.

With your right hand, grasp the filled water syringe, and gently place the tip between your cat's lips. The syringe tip does not actually need to be forced into the oral cavity between your cat's teeth.

Simply depress the plunger gently with the tip of the syringe resting on the lower lip, and your cat will do the rest and swallow it, rather than allow the water to dribble all over their impeccable fur!

Notes on Water Administration

My personal preference is to use 3 ml syringes. Some people prefer the 1 ml syringes rather than the slightly bulkier 3 ml syringes.

The syringe tip which is placed between the lips should always be small and unobtrusive. If the tip is bulky, your cat may resist its presence.

Syringe tip shape, length, and width may vary somewhat depending on the brand and size of the syringe.

One of my favorite tricks is to use teat canulas on the ends of my water syringes! Teat canulas are meant for cow udders. Teat canulas are thin, flexible, elongated plastic tips that can be placed on the ends of the syringes... they are smaller, longer, and softer than the tips of the syringes, so they make great extension tips for giving water or liquid medications orally to cats!

I generally administer the entire syringe-full of water when giving pills, even if my kitty has already swallowed the pill down after the initial depression of the plunger.

It is far better to administer a little more water than necessary than not quite enough!

It's essential that you have enough water-filled syringes present in case you need extra!

Sometimes even the best of pill administrators flub up, so it's handy to be near a water bowl with which you can refill your syringes in case the first pill was expelled and a new pill needs to be given!

You can encourage your cat to swallow the pill by using your right hand to gently stroke your cat's throat - this stimulates the swallowing reflex.

Step V: After the Pilling Procedure has been Completed

After your cat has successfully swallowed the pill(s), give lots of praise, cuddles, and some of their favorite treats, so that they make a positive association with the event.

In time, it is possible that your cat may even come running on cue (or, at the very least, won't run away!) when they hear the medication cupboard being opened, or the pills rattling in the pill vial, because they know that there will be tasty treats coming their way post-medication!

Common Kitty Medicating Mistakes:

Pills

Do NOT mix your cat's medication into their food for several reasons:

Many medications taste unpleasant, and typically the flavor of the medication in your cat's food will simply turn them off of a food that they previously enjoyed.

Putting the pill in food or crushing it and mixing it into food is a very unreliable manner of medicating your cat, unless you are then immediately syringing it as a slurry into your cat's mouth.

If you have other pets in the house, they may end up ingesting the medication and it may not be safe for the other pets in your home.

Liquids

Do not EVER place your cat in dorsal recumbency in order to administer liquid medications - ie. do not cradle your cat like a baby in order to syringe liquid into their mouth! This position makes it difficult for cats to swallow properly, and makes it very easy for them to aspirate the administered liquid into their lungs, instead of swallowing it down their esophagus. I have seen cats suffer from aspiration pneumonia as a result of liquid medications being administered in this manner.

Administer liquid medications the same way you would administer the water post-pill placement. Push the plunger slowly and gently, allowing your cat ample time to swallow the liquid. Keep your left hand (or your right hand if you are left-handed) under their chin in order to keep it closed, and ensure that the jaw is parallel to the floor so that they do not spit or drool out the liquid.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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How to take care of a kitten

Don't let the cuteness of a new kitten baby fool you, these lovable critters can be a lot of work. Kittens are normal with the weaning period of 12 weeks of age, so you should not be bringing home a kitten who is younger than 12 weeks. A healthy kitten will pink ears, pink gums, and clear eyes. Keep your kitten healthy while it is increasingly an important part of a cat who will live a long and healthy life.

Just like any pet, young kittens need some guidance. Allowing a kitten roaming around the House doing what he wants would only result in frustration and made both your kitten begin acclimating to your new home as soon as possible. In principle, a kitten should have its own small space as part of a kitchen, a bathroom, or even a spare bedroom or den. Fill in this room with the kitten: a framework for bedding, food, water, and toys. This will keep the kitten who captured, while also begins to teach what we love in a litter.

If you have other pets or children at home, you'll want to gradually to the kitten kitten after presenting evidence that is comfortable in her new environment. Pay particular attention to the kitten, leaving only over a long period and be given many liberal and love. Ultimately, you're a new parent. A break helps the kitten build muscles and develops a strong bond between you and the kitten. Also, make sure that no one else living in the home plays with kitten when they are young so that it begins to form ties with all members of the family.

Once your kitten is comfortable in his room, you can start to make little training. Litter box training is important, and starting this training at a young age will only help the kitten and save you the trouble of cleaning carried out around the House. Spending too much time with your kitten, especially after you eat and drink, will allow us to know when your kitten will be doing the activities. If you see that your kitten to urinate, gently lift and place the litter tray or frame bedding set. A kitten with rewards and praise when it handles the litter box uses to encourage the repeating behavior.

You can also find your kitten used to ski while young. This will lead to a much easier time down the road when your adult cat should be groomed. Brush your kitten of fur and teeth regularly so you are comfortable with this kind of touch. You can touch your paws kittens also many that gets used to touching paw nail clipping and other future funding.

The key to the growth of a happy and healthy kitten is ensuring that they are comfortable in your new home, and that you have enough time playing, funding and training the new kitten. Your kitten will grow up in no time, and you'll have a fun and lovable cat if you put in the time and effort when it comes to young people.

Alison wood is a co-founder and managing partner of Woodmors.com, a new commercial/informational site offers an array of products and ideas for everyday life. For more articles about cat care, pet related interviews and reviews, visit == >> http://www.woodmors.com/cats

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Treating cats with Heartworm disease

It is important for the domestic-use heartworm medicine for cats to avoid the occurrence of disease. Heartworm disease is very dangerous and can even be life-threatening. When the heartworms have developed enough, they can live inside the heart. This disease usually seen in dogs. However, cats can also get this disease. The parasite known as heartworm, Dirofilaria, or derived from a mosquito bite. The saliva of the mosquito larvae, has injected into the bloodstream. They can be incubated for a while. Parasites must go through many stages before they develop into adult a worm. Take about six months for the condition to get worse. The worms burrow themselves into the tissues of the cat. However, a by-product called microfilariae, which travels in the blood stream. This makes it easier for vets to diagnose. A simple blood test is required.

The heart of the cats is significantly smaller than that of a dog. Why are at greater risk for heartworm disease. A worm could prove fatal. It is important that every cat owner knows the symptoms of the disease, so that their cat to the VET as necessary. If you notice that your cat has been coughing and has less power than usual, it could be the first symbol. Anemia and bloody sputum cytology are also symptoms of the disease. Because these are symptoms and other diseases, can be quite difficult to differentiate from others.

There are several types of treatment available for cats with heartworm disease. Your veterinarian can manage the heartworm medicine for cats. However, you should never provide any form of medication to your cat without consulting the VET first. Some drugs may not be appropriate for some cats, and can cause serious side effects. The best way to combat the heartworms is still prevention.

Revolution is one of the best preventative heartworm medicine for cats. It is a timely solution, and is not invasive. Also works on other parasites like intestinal worms and fleas, ear mites. All you need is an effective product for all of these complications. The product should be applied once a month to the skin behind the neck or shoulder blades. The medication is able to kill and eliminate both heartworms larvae phase. Furthermore, both cats and dogs for various parasitic diseases can use. It also kills adult fleas and flea eggs. This solution is very effective maintenance to prevent all kinds of complications from parasites.

Before attempting any heartworm medicine for cats, make sure to consult a veterinarian first. I know, that is right for your cat. A complete medical history may be required to ensure that your cat will not have any adverse reactions to any of the medicines. Also, this will ensure that your cat heartworm disease is not serious. In some cases, may require specific types of medicinal products aimed at the adult heartworms.

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What is it with cats and heights?

Ever wonder why your cat is able to land on its feet almost every time he or she falls or jumps from seemingly all heights? Ever wonder why cats are able to survive falls from 10+ stories with barely any scratches and yet cats that fall from lesser heights such as 4 stories often sustain fatal, or near-fatal, injuries? Have you heard the term 'high-rise syndrome' applied to cats and wondered what it meant? Do you wonder what you can do to protect your cat from heights? Let's explore this fascinating and important topic!

How are cats able to consistently land on their paws when they fall?

Cats have an innate ability to right themselves in mid-air when they fall from an inverted position. This is usually referred to as the 'righting reflex' but is also known as the 'labyrinthine reflex' and occasionally is also categorized as a 'neck righting reflex.' The term righting reflex is actually a bit misleading because it infers that there is one reflex that is triggered when a cat falls, when in actuality, there is a sequence of reflexes that take place in order for the end result to be that the cat lands on its paws. The combination of reflexes that compose the sum effect of the righting reflex are: the labyrinthine righting reflexes, the optic righting reflexes, body righting reflexes, and cervical righting reflexes.

When cats fall they gather information from their vestibular system, which contains the labyrinth of the inner ear and is responsible for equilibrioception, or, in other words, is responsible for spatial orientation and balance. They also gather visual information to help them assess what direction is up and what direction is down, and, with a combination of other sensory input, and their flexible spines and rudimentary collarbones, cats are able to quickly orient and right themselves. Cats begin to develop this reflex at about 3-4 weeks, and it is typically functioning at 7 weeks of age.

How are cats able to survive falls from great heights?

There are multiple factors that enable cats to sustain fewer injuries from particular heights in comparison with humans. Cats are relatively small and light, have flexible spines, thick fur, and they reach a much slower terminal velocity relative to humans. The terminal velocity that a falling cat reaches is the constant speed at which they fall when they have reached their maximal acceleration and are no longer gaining velocity. Cats reach a terminal velocity of approximately 100 km//hr, whereas humans reach a terminal velocity of approximately 210 km/hr, and, fortunately for cats, they reach their terminal velocity at a height around 5 stories, whereas humans tend to reach terminal velocity at a height of around 32 stories.

Cats employ their excellently developed righting reflexes, and once they reach their terminal velocity their vestibular systems are less stimulated, and instead of maintaining rigid body posture, they relax. Once cats reach this more relaxed state, they spread their limbs horizontally to increase drag in the air, and to more evenly distribute the forces of their impact when they hit the ground.

Studies have shown that cats that fall from heights greater than 5 stories are better able to survive because they are able to employ the above survival techniques. Cats tend to sustain more serious injuries when they are not able to reach terminal velocity and relax. That said, cats can receive fatal injuries when they fall from any height, and every fall has the potential to be traumatic or even deadly.

What is "High-Rise Syndrome"?

High-rise syndrome is the term used when cats fall from heights greater than 2 stories, including the injuries sustained from the fall. Unfortunately, despite the fact that high-rise syndrome is 100% preventable, it is seen very commonly in the veterinary industry, particularly during summer months when owners open windows and leave balcony doors open.

High-rise syndrome frequently involves chest trauma such as bruised lungs, pneumothoraxes (air trapped in the chest cavity from lacerated airway tissues), and broken ribs. Frequently there are fractures to limbs, and sometimes spinal fractures. High-rise syndrome frequently causes traumatic myocarditis, which is injury sustained by the heart. Oro-facial trauma is common and can include a fractured jaw, fractured skull, fractured teeth, and fractured palate. One of the scariest components of high-rise syndrome is the damage that is much less visibly obvious - damage to organs of the abdominal cavity. Cats that fall from heights frequently suffer from bruised and bleeding organs such as liver, spleen, and kidneys, and can even have these organs rented, or avulsed, from their locations within the abdominal cavity.

What can you do to secure your cat's safety from heights?

Secure all windows! Cats are notorious for jumping/falling out of windows! They are easily stimulated by birds flying by, bugs, and other attractive stimuli. Even if you live in a house in which the highest window is two stories above ground, it is still essential to ensure the windows have very secure screens in place. As you now know, cats are more prone to suffering greater injuries when they fall from lesser heights than those that fall from greater heights (6 stories and above).

Fence in balconies all balconies! Balconies are another cause for "high-rise syndrome." Just because a balcony is high does not mean that your cat will not jump or fall off of it - loud noises or construction may startle them so that they reflexively back away off of the railing or between the railings, or a bird flying past can create a great enough stimulus that they leap for it without thinking twice about how high up the balcony is. Balconies should be fenced from the ground to the bottom of balcony above so that jumping off is an impossibility - there are many types of aesthetic fencing options available that will pass most building standards because they are visually unobtrusive. Also, consider using a harness and leash while allowing your cat on the balcony - supervision and restraint are the most certain methods of ensuring your cats safety.

Do not use childproof window guards since cats can fit through them.

What should you do if your cat sustains a fall?

If your cat has fallen from any height (even a single story!) it is imperative that you bring to your veterinarian immediately. Symptoms of internal damage may not become obvious to you at home immediately, and by the time they do, it may be too late to effectively help your cat. There is much that your veterinarian can detect from a physical exam that you will be unable to assess at home by simple observation of your cat, and early intervention and supportive care will be crucial to your cat's survival. Even if your cat is eating, drinking, and acting altogether 'normal,' it is still best to have your cat checked out by your vet! Cats have high survival rates when they receive immediate veterinary treatment post-fall.

To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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Training your Cat to use a scratching Post

Cats have their natural behaviour that can appall a new owner, such as table legs, couches scratching or any surface around the House. If you happened to start with a kitten, it will be easier for you to start with good habit pattern.

Why cats scratch
Cats have an instinct to scratch for several reasons. The main reason is that their fingernails clean and keeps them in a healthy length. Also gives them a way to exercise, strengthen and stretch their muscles. It is also a way for the cat to exert instinct to mark its territory. In addition, it will take to do something that gives pleasure and can improve its attitude and increase happiness. And we all know that a healthy and happy cat is the best to have around.

Start training on the principles
After your accessorizing with a kitten cat collar, provide your new kitty with an appropriate scratching around your home will spare no unsightly from scratch marks and at the same time give you little darling freedom to do all the scraping and expanding needs. Scratching is a natural urge of a cat to release stress, clean fingernails hardened coverage and tone muscles. Also, release scratching when scent to mark their territories.

Maintaining a good habit
It is a good move for the owner of a cat, and you can select one or more cat scratching posts found in cat supplies store. Since your cat would roam around the House, you might want to have your cat scratching posts in different areas where your cat usually visits. The rule is 1 + 1. If you have a cat, you may be able to buy a scratching post, plus an additional element. Or, you can provide more if you have a larger House.

Choosing the perfect Post for your pet

Although a cat will love the natural feeling of a tree stump, Rustic look may not fill the Interior of your House. There are different types of commercial cat scratching posts in shops that carry cat supplies. You may want to give your beloved kitty "Proprietary partition of type" scratching post that will not only be scratching the surface but they also provide a cloak and climbing location. Scratching post as a simple wooden pole attached to a sturdy base will also serve the same purpose, except that they're easy on the Pocket. Depending on the preference of your cat, you can select posts with smooth or rough surface.

Get the latest cat collars and the very best cat scratching post available for your cat to the Petstore.com

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Kittykit Pet head Wipes for cats

Spoil and indulge your pet with the deluxe range of Pet Head pet grooming products Asian Pear!

The Pet Head grooming range is just as fantastically effective and made to the same high standards as the popular Bed Head range for humans with the same funky packaging that will brighten up any bathroom!

The Pet Head Multi Groom Cat Wipes, Purrfectly Clean makes grooming simple! The wipes are ideal for pets on the go, or just for a quick clean after playtime. The multi purpose wipes don't only leave your pet clean quickly, but have deodorizing properties to ensure that your pet smells as gorgeous as he/she looks!

The wipes are pleasantly scented with refreshing asian pear which both you and your pampered bet will adore!

Pack 25 Asian Pear

Kitty Pet Head Wipes

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Interactive cat toys to keep your Cat alone

Since the first game of cat was conceptualized, there was great development as regards data on the fun for your cats. These days, there are interactive cat toys that promise an exciting experience not only for the cat, but the owner of cat as well.

So, if you have a kitten or a fully grown cat, do not miss about the opportunity to purchase an interactive game for that.

A common game for cats is a coil forming a tunnel which the cat can go out and get by. Cats will enjoy running inside it. Sometimes, can act and play as stalking. It will be more enjoyable for the cat if you can play with it. You can act both as prey and let's lurk while walks or crawls in the tunnel.

Given the game type to find your cat trapped within the same, it is essential that you leave only while playing with some toys. Also, themselves, may be unwieldy and dangerous if left is displayed around the House. Thus, when selecting products like this, make sure you have a folding in order to be able to take this store and occupy a very small space. But, apart from a game, these tunnels can act as Sleeping quarters for your cat. To be more comfortable, you can set open a pillow underneath and beside your cat.

There are also wobbly that the toys would be perfect to provide the right move for your cat to play with. These games are usually made of soft, sometimes, rubbery material in spring and back when he started in motion. Most cats are interested with this kind of games. You can engage in the game, ensuring that the game is kept in motion.

You can also create games for your pet. The easiest one to the mouse. Since an electronic version may be too complicated for you, you can choose one that is linked to a string. Organisation of your mouse can be done from a clean cloth. For this hardware, you can just take one or two of your old socks, but clean, and fold and roll to form a round item that resembles a mouse.

Then, you can sew the ends together to ensure that you won't be disturbed figure. Get the string and tie or sew the front of the mouse. You can design a mouth, nose, whiskers, eyes and ears, if you would like to. Now, you may be ready to play. You can drag the mouse and your cat with certainties.

Another game that you can be a rod and reel with a game fish. This activity will Likewise your cat and certainties to reach the fish. This may be less painful as the game involves the mouse, you can play with your cat while you're directly downwards. You can simply hold the rod submit your cat.

Jerri Torres enjoys writing for Petflow which sells innova pet lover and chicken soup, as well as a host of additional products.

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Ringworm in cats-an easy question and answer Guide for you

Cats are common victims of the dermatophyte caused by ringworm. To be specific, ringworm in cats is caused by Microsporum canis canis or m. This fungus is also responsible for the dog and human infections. Is the main dermatophyte linked to 90 percent of cases of ring-worm in cats. These errors are small, and since the return of cat fur spit than is even tinier spores. The spores are found in groups for the hairs of the pet and easily create ring-worms secret. If you want to help your animals you need to learn more about the behavior of m. canis. The following is a question and answer guide can enhance your understanding.

How does get your friend a little mice by Microsporum canis?
Sick animals lose their infected fur and this drop where other pets and humans can gather without their knowledge. If your cat is unfortunate enough to come into direct contact with infected hair or polluted environment can develop ringworm. Even ski accessories used to store the groomer could pass the spores.

What happens when the animal fur collect spores?
Once the spores then attach the animals their fur will detect your skin. In conclusion, this would immediately grow as hyphae, and then the infection. Mostly, the animal loses hair cuticle leaving parts affected patches back. Even the hair around the limit of the rings appears weak and brittle. Sometimes the affected coat may appear inflamed and pet can have problems itch. The kind of symptoms depends largely on the exact cause of the problem.

When you ring round around or lesions form?
Are mostly on the cats head and ears. If the degree of contamination is severe, may constitute alterations for the feet as well. Ring-worm is a highly infectious diseases and the animal can help transmit the disease to the rest of the body. Cats are always licking its coat and funding their faces with its front legs. In addition, may be extended to the disease in humans, especially children, many do not believe that these lesions on their pet's body is contagious. Even your dogs are not safe, where they have an environment and with sick kittens. Speaking of kittens, did you know that they are in great danger of contamination of lag? Given that the immunity is weak, young kittens are likely to fungal infections.

Is there a way you can help animals with this disorder?
The first step you can do if you notice an unknown for your cat's hair is getting veterinary. Take this measure ensures that your friend is treated and to alleviate the discomfort associated with fungal disease. The VET will carry out a diagnosis because the infection can be easily confused with certain disorders of the skin. M canis diagnosed with what the experts call ultraviolet wood lamp. Can also perform testing of culture where the infected hairs have been defined in a way that encourages fungus development in the laboratory. Sometimes a simple microscope control is sufficient.

For more information, read the article, and ringworm Ringworm in cats

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When to worry about your cat's health

Cats are a very durable kind of creature that can withstand a lot. But you know your pet and when something goes wrong, can generally understand this. Sometimes, however, the signs are not as obvious as you'd like to be, or are looking for. Here are some things to be aware of that can mean your cat is sick.

First, check the nose. Like dogs, wet nose is a good sign that a dry nose could mean sickness like fever or anything. Calculation not soon, if you think your cat's nose is dry it is patients however. This is just one of many possible symptoms that could mean many things, and there are many reason why your cat's nose is moist, so if you happen to be dry, take some time to see if anything from this article.

When your cat's behavior, this can be an important signal that something is seriously wrong. Does your cat usually prefer to open, but begins to hide instead? Looking for the usual loose face tense? Stopped to eat or consume much less than normal? All of these are easy things to talk about, and while it does not necessarily mean something is wrong, and horrifically is wise to call your VET for further advice. This can only be demonstrated indigestion, but not harm to check.

One important indication warning that you may have thought of is a sudden increase in your cat's interests to run away and hide somewhere. There is morbid, but when cats are preparing to die, generally prefer to do only somewhere, hence why that could run and hide. This goes together with hide as if they are unable to take off at least we will try and hide where possible within the home, often under beds and behind couches and such. If you suspect your cat is the end of the moments of life, to the VET immediately.

Don't want to lose your head over every little thing, but I also don't want to lose your partner either, especially when there are warning signs. Don't overreact, but be sure to call the VET with any questions. They will be able to take the final decision for you and guide you to act reasonably. Just know your cat's behavior!

For more information and useful material on cat health, cat, head to SimplyCatBreeds.org!

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Hairless breeds-the epitome of joy

"Dogs have owners, while cats have staff, a well known phrase goes '. Ancient Egyptian royalty cat is considered Holy blessing, while there were cases throughout medieval Europe, where beautiful women were judged on their ability to be identical to the cats.

These cats are different breeds, sizes and colors. One of the most mysterious breeds of hairless cat, is published from time to time in Europe and the United States. This was the charm of this breed that many rumours that popped up from time to time.

History of Hairless breeds of pet animals

The earliest accounts of domestic animals of the 18th century in South America, where some locals said about seeing a strange show cat, without hairs. Later, some people in Paraguay confirmed seeing a genre cats were hairless, but some local enterprises were not sure if the pets they saw was a new species of hairless cats, or some other small wild animals.

Mexican Hairless breeds of pet animals

Later, in the early 19th century, some local Pueblo Indians gifted 2 cats (one male and one female) on one or two than region of New Mexico. Pablo Indians claimed that cats were Aztec survivors breed cat-the point being discussed up to now.

Unfortunately, the male cat died, while the female cat taken in Europe during 1903. A few decades later, there were news bytes of the hairless pet animals dogs and pets open shows in Europe and the United States, but these events has not been any substantial evidence associated with them.

One of the most exciting and oldest breeds of hairless breed was hairless Mexican, which, according to various cat lovers, went into oblivion without any chances of mating. Also, whenever there was a determination of the two hairless animals, kids somehow mysteriously never mated or, if they did not bring any mate, no offspring in this world.

Later races of Hairless species

Second for the hairless Mexican, Canadian pets hairless managed to maintain a consistent suspense filled situation. Nicknamed the Sphinx or Sphynx, features are contributed by recessive gene. With great interest by the general public, reproduction of these pets Sphynx was in full swing in the 30s, but later stopped. The last batch of this breed was sent to the Netherlands, but unfortunately, this pair does not provide any descendants and some medical journals perhaps ironic but confirmed that the series had lost the Sphynx and lack of mating is based on chemistry.

But, with the active interest and support of science, many other breeds of hairless cat breed as horizontal Donskoy, Don Sphynx, Elf cat etc. Mat, hairless cats also have a very small layer of hair.

Hairless cats are different and require different levels of care as well. Their skin feels oily often as cats do not have hair to distribute or to absorb oil. These are mostly indoors breeds, such as wind and Sun take a toll on the skin. Use of pet sun block is recommended when these cats business. Striped fur side bed and dressing works well with these coatless cats.

Finally, these cats are special and need special care.

A guide to cat lovers, where you can find various information intensive cat breeds, the requirements and characteristics. Learn also highlights on health cat, cat training and behavior etc.

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New Cat Maze

Keep your kitty entertained for hours with this Cat Treat Maze from the Nina Ottosson range of Pet Puzzle Toys.
A great way to stimulate your cat's natural hunting instincts and make eating dry kibble more satisfying for them. Suitable for all ages and sizes of cats - most standard dry foods or treats can be used.
Another great toy from Nina Ottosson!
Put treats in the hole at the top on both sides of the Cat Treat Maze.
The cat has to work to get the Cat Treat Maze in motion so that it wobbles, rocks and sometimes spins around, so that the treats pass through a maze inside on both sides and then fall out through the openings on both top and bottom.
The Cat Treat Maze is a treat maze that activates and entertains your Cat. The unpredictable movement keeps the toy challenging.
Can be used inside or outside.
All treats that fit in the hole at the top, can come out through the holes on the sides.
Cat Treat Maze is easy to clean, rinse with running water.
Great for supervised play.
Size: 18cm, 7 inches diameter.  Colour: Pink/Blue.
Skill level 2 (Medium).

Tips….
Make it more difficult for the cat to get the treats out by putting a piece of a paper towel in one of the holes of both the top and bottom, so that the treats can only come out of one hole per side.
Let your cat work for his food and feed the meals in the Cat Treat Maze. Perfect for both slow and fast eaters. 
Remember….
Do not let the cat bite or chew on the toy.
Do not leave the cat unattended, teach the cat how to work out the treat pieces.
Have fun together with your cat!

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Play kitten

How can anyone resist a sweet, innocent kitten? Those sweet innocent little balls of fur often hide a surprisingly mischievous side. Some new cat parents find they aren't prepared when these little angels become little furry balls of energy who hang from unstoppable chandeliers, bounce off of walls and pounce on anything that moves. So what is a new kitten-parent to do? Why do kittens need to play with such ferocity and intensity?

Play is essential for learning life skills. Through play, kittens on important social skills, learn the art of hunting and they improve and hone their motor skills. Play also provides essential mental and physical stimulation. And let's face it, the playing is just fun. Sometimes no excuse is needed for a rambunctious play session.

The urge to play starts between the ages of 3-4 weeks. This is especially intense urge to play with kittens are at least one year old? some cats play with high intensity continually until they are two years old. Most cats play throughout their lives, though not with the intensity or frequency as when they were kittens.

The 3 main types of play are: social, industrial and predatory sexual play. Social play helps cats learn limits and boundaries. Through social play cats learn how intense they can play without hurting their playmates. Kittens communicate to each other through vocalizations and body language when their playmate is playing too rough. Social play also helps on important fighting skills, necessary for survival. Better to practice with a sibling then learn in the real world where the stakes are higher.

Predatory play is very important for teaching essential kittens hunting skills. This type of play is typified by kittens stalking, lying in wait and pouncing. In the wild, kitten moms often bring small prey animals back to their kittens to help them on hunting skills essential.

Young, unaltered males start displaying sexual play when they are usually between 4-5 months old. They will jump and pin down their female litter mates, grabbing and holding them on the nape of their necks. Neutering usually puts a stop to sexual play.

The easiest way to properly direct that intense energy play is to provide kittens with playmates. Many behaviorists, breeders and cat rescuers OK that kittens are adopted in pairs, that way they have buddies they can play with to their little heart's content. Instead of incessantly offers playtime from their human playmates, they can focus that energy on their boundless buddies. Of course, that isn't always possible and most people love to play with kittens.

The Rules of Play Engagement There are some basic rules of engagement that should be followed when playing with kittens. If they are ignored, kittens can aggression on challenges which could have been avoided.

‧ Always use toys when playing with a kitten. Never use hands. Using hands when playing with kittens typically results in kittens not understanding boundaries. From the kitten's view point, she doesn't understand why she's sometimes encouraged to bite and grab hands and other times hands and other body parts are off limits.
‧ Don't play with kittens under the sheets. Playing under sheets and bed clothes campaigns leads to kittens and cats attacking their favorite people in the middle of the night while they sleep.
‧ Don't use laser pointers. It may seem to us humans that kittens and cats love chasing them. In reality, chasing laser pointers is frustrating and fruitless. They are trying their very best to capture that dot that can never be captured or killed. Similar to real-life hunting situations, in play, kittens and cats need to have the satisfaction of capturing their prey at least some of the time. Never being able to catch that elusive dot leaves them frustrated and full of adrenalin and may result in play aggression challenges.
‧ Don't insist on playing. If your kitten needs to catch a few winks extra, let her. Be happy for the down time. Engage her in play when she's ready to play.

The best way to play is using a technique that imitates the hunt and parking in predatory play. Start by using a fishing pole type of toy. These types of toys should only be left within reach kitten when you are around to supervise. Cats can accidentally hurt themselves by wrapping the string around themselves or ingesting the toy. Pretend that the toy on the end of the fishing pole is prey that is trying to escape from a predator. Drag the toy at the end of the fishing pole in a way that encourages the kitten to pounce, stalk and attack the toy as if it's prey. If your kitten is inspired by flying prey, launch your toy into the air. Also encourage your kitten to expend energy and exercise by climbing and jumping on different surfaces when she chases the toy. Pulling the toy under objects on top of boxes and inside bags can also inspire kittens.

When you are ready to stop playing, don't just cease playing. Instead, continue to imitate the hunt by slowing the movements of the prey-toy down. Pretend that the prey-toy has fallen victim a few times to it's attacker or perhaps it's tired from the lively chase. Slow the toy down for a few minutes and then finally let the kitten catch the toy one last time. After the kitten makes her last catch for the play session, immediately feed her something she adores. She will eat, groom and go to sleep *.

Kittens need multiple play sessions every day. The most intense sessions should be in the mornings and in the evenings since those are the times that cats are the most active.

For more information, please go to http://www.thecatcoach.com On site and phone consultations available

* This play technique was developed by Pam Johnson-Bennett, a certified animal behavior consultant.

c May 2010 by Marilyn Krieger, CCBC All Rights reserved to Marilyn is certified through the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants

Marilyn Mayo, Certified Cat Behavior Consultant known as The Cat Coach, is an internationally recognized and veterinarian-referred cat behavior specialist, offering both on-site and telephone consultation sessions. Marilyn helps resolve cat behavior issues using a combination of positive methods, including behavior modification, training, management and education. One of her goals is to UI people about cats and cat behavior in order to prevent cats from being surrendered to shelters and euthanized because of resolvable behavior challenges.

Marilyn owns The Cat Coach, LLC a cat-behavior consulting business and is a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC), where she co-chairs the Cat Division.

Her book Cat Fancy's Naughty No More! Change Unwanted Behaviors through Positive Reinforcement, released in January 2011, focuses on changing troublesome cat behavior through a combination of clicker training, management, education and other positive reinforcement methods,

In addition to consulting and writing, Marilyn teaches classes and lectures nationally on cat behavior. She utilizes her expertise as a cat to cat-behaviorist answer behavior calls on Animal Behavior Help Line at the Peninsula Humane Society in San Mateo, Calif. She frequently guests on television and radio programs, providing valuable tips and insight on how to improve cat behavior. Recently, she was featured with her cats on Animal Planet's Cats 101, showcasing clicker training and talking about cat behavior.

For more information about Marilyn and her cat-consulting services, please check out http://www.thecatcoach.com/

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Your kitten's veterinary needs the 1st year of life

Congratulations on the adoption of your new feline! And now...

... you may be wondering, 'what comes next?' What kind of care will your newest, and youngest, family member require?

In addition to all of the TLC that your kitten will receive from you at home, there will be many ways in which your veterinarian will contribute to the health and growth of your kitten during their first year of life. It is important to establish a healthy beginning, and your veterinarian will be essential in this process.

PHYSICAL EXAMS:

Your vet will give your kitten a full physical exam, which means that your kitten's heart and lungs will be listened to, their belly (and all abdominal organs) will be palpated, their temperature taken, skin and coat health assessed, and their teeth, eyes, and ears checked. Your vet will check if your kitten is indeed a male or female (gender confusion is not uncommon in small kittens... sometimes the first trip to the vet means that "Alex" becomes "Alexandra!"). If your kitten is male, your vet will determine whether his testes have descended yet. They will check for the presence of umbilical hernias and other common congenital abnormalities, and will look for ear mites and fleas. If any of these unwanted visitors are present, they will be promptly dealt with by your vet!

VACCINES:

There are three types of vaccinations that kittens receive, and they are administered in a series of boosters, typically at 4 week intervals. FVRCP, FeLV, and rabies are the three vaccines types with which kittens are immunized. FVRCP stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia. Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis is caused by the Feline Herpes Virus -1, and causes upper respiratory and eye infections which can range from mild to severe. Calicivirus is also an upper respiratory virus that can cause both 'colds' and eye infections, but which can have a greater severity of clinical disease, including sudden death in certain highly virulent (pathogenic) strains. Panleukopenia is also a very serious virus. It causes severe bone marrow suppression, intestinal disease, and commonly death. All three viruses in the FVRCP vaccine are extremely contagious. FeLV stands for Feline Leukemia Virus, which will be described briefly below.

On your kitten's first visit (8 weeks old), the first of three FVRCP vaccines will be administered, as well as the first of two FeLV vaccines.

On their second visit (12 weeks old) your kitten will receive an FVRCP booster and the second (and last) FeLV booster.

On their third visit (16 weeks old) your kitten will receive their third (and final) FVRCP booster as well as a rabies vaccine (which does not require additional boosters). This last set of vaccines never occurs earlier than 16 weeks of age, because otherwise there are still maternal antibodies present (viral immunity that was transferred through nursing) which interfere with your kitten's own antibody immune production.

DEWORMING & OTHER CREEPY CRAWLIES:

Your kitten will also be sent home with a broad spectrum deworming medication that is typically administered either orally or topically several times at anywhere from two to four week intervals depending on what type of dewormer your vet has dispensed. Your vet may also instruct you to collect a fresh fecal sample which you can bring to your kitten's next appointment; it will be checked for the presence of parasitic protozoan organisms which the deworming medication does not treat. If your kitten's fecal sample is positive for any of these other parasites, your vet will prescribe medication(s) to treat their infection(s).

VIRAL TESTING:

On the second or third visit, your veterinarian will likely recommend laboratory blood work tests for your kitten. Blood work is done for two reasons. One reason is to check your kitten's viral status (positive or negative) for Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV). FeLV and FIV are retroviruses that spread between kitties, and are the most common causes of infectious deaths among domestic cats. Assessment of your kitten's viral status is particularly important if you have other cats within the household as well.

Kittens can test negative for FeLV and FIV during the incubation phase of infection, so if your kitten was tested at a young age, your veterinarian may recommend testing a second time several months later to ascertain your kitten's negative status.

PRE-ANESTHETIC BLOOD TESTING:

The second reason for which blood work is performed in your kitten's first year of life is to prepare for the general anesthetic that will be needed for your kitten to be spayed or neutered before they reach 6 months of age. A general blood work panel helps to assess the health of the kidneys, liver, and bone marrow so that your veterinarian knows in advance of any abnormal anesthetic and surgical risks your kitten may be affected by.

Spaying and neutering should typically be done between 4 and 6 months of age. This helps lessen the occurrence of certain types of cancers, lessens wandering behaviour, aggression, and also prevents reproductive activity, which is very important due to the high population of feral cats as well as the many unwanted shelter kitties in North America.

When you kitten is under general anesthetic for surgery, it is an opportune time to also give them a microchip. A microchip is a fail-proof form of identification, unlike tattoos which can be blurred over time and are only useful locally, and unlike collars and tags that can come off or become outdated. Microchips are implanted just underneath the skin between the shoulder blades, and then can be read using a scanner. If your kitten ever gets outside accidentally and becomes lost, any veterinary clinic or animal shelter will be able to identify your kitten via the microchip code.

All of this may seem like a crazy jumble of medical terms and concerns, but just keep in mind that you'll need to take your kitty to the vet four times in their first year. Three times for vaccinations, physical checks and bloodwork and once for spaying or neutering.

That is the end of your kitten's first set of health visits to the veterinarian!

At 1 year of age, your cat will be due for a health exam and their 1 year FVRCP and rabies boosters. If you have any questions or concerns before the 1 year milestone, you should not hesitate to contact your veterinarian.

To read more articles written by veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com/ and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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What is a Hypoallergenic cat?

The definition of hypoallergenic cat is a cat that is less likely to cause an allergic reaction in humans. Although there is some debate about the existence of truly hypoallergenic cat, it cannot be any debate over the fact that some tribes have more than a reaction caused in humans by others. Hairless Sphynx cats like little certainly cause allergic reaction in humans. Also widely believed that the Siberian cats produce less allergy causing protein Fel d 1 in most other breeds.

Cat allergen
According to medical research, there are a total of five cat allergen. These include the two largest problems for humans, Fel d 1 and d, 4 d Fel Fel Fel d 2, 3 and finally cat IgA.

FEL d 1 explained
FEL d 1 is a protein in cats derived largely from their saliva. It is the main cause for allergies which many people suffer when coming into contact with cats. The function of this protein is aware but when coming into contact with humans, can cause either an allergic or asthmatic response. Female cats produce at a lower level of Fel d 1 as castrated male cats. This had led to the assumption that Fel d 1 is regulated from hormonal action of testosterone. Proteins are sticky enough and insisted on a number of surfaces in the home. There are steps you can take to reduce the amounts currently including frequent washing of clothes, use filters and IERA cats wash themselves.

Hypoallergenic breeds
Cats with little or no hair is considered to be the most effective when trying to choose a breed that will help you to avoid the symptoms associated with cat allergies. The Sphynx is the most popular and well known hairless breed of cat, and a very recognizable. It is extremely intelligent cats and very individual looks is actually quite attractive for some pet owners.

Varieties of cats have hair, Siberia is believed to be the most available hypoallergenic. This breed has been around for many years and Russian tests have been produced at a lower level of allergy causing protein Fel d 1 from other races. As female cats also produce lower levels of this allergen, a female Siberian cat is likely to be a very valuable option for allergy sufferers.

Hypoallergenic cat resources
Find further information about hypoallergenic cats from the excellent http://hypoallergeniccat.org/for the Hypoallergenic Cat site

Is the leading web resource for information hypoallergenic cat and about how to combat food-related allergies cats.

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How to deal with Cat spray Cat spraying and female

I used to have a cat that was bad about the cat in the vents spraying my truck. I broke the putting little sticky Roach traps on the hood of my truck. It became very clear what makes when we had to peel the Roach traps outside of paws. I know that sounds a bit harsh, but it was better than putting up rat traps here or get rid of the CAT.

I got rid of the smell of ink "cat" using cooking soda and bleach. I mixed a little cooking soda and water and poured it in my truck vents along with a little bleach. It seemed to do the trick right away to get rid of the smell of ink "cat".

Usually when a small kitten begins to spray will lift small tail twitch and the front and rear in a vibratory motion. Usually around 6 weeks is not really any spraying should only really comes through. But try, believe me.

Cat spray should not be treated with ammonia, as it will only make it worse. If you notice, cat spray smells like ammonia, sorta. So why would you throw gas on a fire? Will only intensify the smell of ink "cat".

I will give you some solid advice that really works if you want your cat to stop spraying at home or at the same point over and over again.

First yourself Scratch post and put in your garage or the back veranda and if you don't have a garage. An entry cat contains cat NIP, but not many. So then you should go to your local Walmart or where ever you can buy cat NIP. Pour the NIP cat all swap station. The cat or cats would prefer to spray for the Scratch register as apposed to your couch or Chair. Believe me it works really.

There are other tips and tricks that will help you get your cat to stop the spraying, if you love your cat. If you don't have the patience, then the only alternative to spray your cat stop is to get rid of the cat and make yourself an animal not spraying.

I am not a cat expert although I think it could be considered one, albeit for no other reason than the fact that I have had so many cats in my life. Both inside and outside cats.

So if you wanna know really how to deal with your best Cat smell, spray or click this link and visit my blog when I get more penetrating, or you can visit my blog directly here: http://www.cat-spray.blogspot.com/

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Frontline for cats-an effective Flea treatment for cats

The cat flea can be insignificant insect the vast majority of us, but for any cat owners out there can be a real thorn in the side. You don't need much for cats to conclude a flea infestation. A cat, you only need to go outside, you may lie on the ground or the brush around with other cats and before you know it, this is mice.

The flea is very cunning. Flea actually develops within the grass and undergrowth of the outdoors. When an unsuspecting cat them simply hop aboard. Here, fortunately, feed on their blood and egg products. When the cat is out, the eggs are shed over the territory where they hatched in ice and then eventually into fleas and the whole process starts again.

If your cat fleas, each symbol should be addressed immediately, not only for the benefit of your cat, but also to help stop the infection spreading to other cats. It is easy to check your cat for fleas. Simply Check the duration of fur along the back and neck and check their underside, especially a particularly favorite place for fleas to do together. If you see any little black creatures darting to or from their fur, scampering quickly along the skin your cat has fleas, I fear.

Fortunately, there are some truly effective therapies on the market that will help to address this problem. Will not go for any flea powders, but what I would recommend editing is "Spot On", such as Frontline. Frontline for cats actively will kill your cat any infection may have been within 24 hours. Not only that, but your cat that protect against any future attack flea for a full five weeks.

Use Frontline is really easy. Nothing needs to be taken internally, it is an external process to be extremely safe. Everything in a small box, which contains a number of pipettes. You can buy in quantities of 3 or 6 pipettes with pack 6 pipettes are usually significantly cheaper per pipette then the last. The pipettes-backed film themselves blister packages containing liquid treatment, shape similar to that of traditional pipette.

You can manage just clipped the top of the pipette with a pair of scissors, a small area of fur anywhere along the back neck region cat and compressing all content directly from their exposed skin. You should be careful not to get, or at least minimised, with fur that will not to disperse and effectively wasted. This can be somewhat tricky, if you cat evasive around but if you keep the the good, it should be okay.

Once done, any contamination must be wiped out within a 24-hour period. One thing that is truly remarkable about Frontline is to work for a further 5 weeks, killing any fleas on your cat land within a short period of time.

Frontline comes very recommended by not only the vets, but a huge number of cat owners too!

Alice Richards is a regular blog writer and webmaster. It owns two cats in her home in London who tend to sit down such letters would often enough. The preferred flea treatment for cats, Frontline is due to the tremendous effectiveness.

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Top Ten Cat Food Myths and misunderstandings

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Myth # 1: Dry food is better for my cat than wet food.

False! While dry food does leave less residue on cats' teeth, thus creating less plaque buildup and tartar formation, dry food is far less natural for your cat than wet food, and the few dental benefits of dry food do NOT outweigh the health advantages of wet food... there is no contest!

Feral cats hunt mice, birds, and other small prey animals because they are obligate carnivores. When comparing water content, protein, fat, and other elements within the nutritional composition profiles of feline prey species to both dry and wet cat foods, wet foods are more analogous to cats' natural diet than dry foods are - by far!

Wet food is approximately 70% to 80% water content which is similar to the water content of prey species' bodies.

Cats who eat wet food consume 3 to 5 times the amount of water over the course of the day relative to cats who eat dry food.

Cats were originally desert creatures and inhabited areas where water was not freely available for consumption. This means two things: 1) cats are meant to hydrate themselves via their food intake, and 2) their kidneys developed the capacity to produce highly concentrated urine to conserve their body water in times when prey was scarce and water was unavailable. So when cats do not obtain water through their diets because their diet is composed mainly of dry food, their kidneys chronically conserve their body water by producing the highly concentrated urine they are capable of making. Their kidneys spend a lifetime working very hard in order to compensate for their decreased water intake when their diets are composed of dry matter; this water conservation mechanism was only meant to be used in temporary times of need - not as a long-term solution to be used for decades!

Why is water intake so important for cats? Because proper hydration, as obtained via wet diets, helps prevent many human-induced (via dry diets) lower urinary tract diseases and kidney problems.

Additionally, dry food often contains grain fillers (corn, wheat, potato, rice, soy, etc.) that are entirely inappropriate for obligate carnivores to be ingesting. Evolutionarily cats were not built to digest grains. And although there are now a few 'high quality' dry foods on the market that are not made with grains, the fact remains that dry food is still dense (97% dry matter), is hard on cats' GI tracts and still results in decreased water intake. Avoiding dry food and unnatural ingredients in your cats' diets (even the wet ones) helps prevent human-induced diseases (via diet) such as inflammatory bowel disease, eosinophilic enteritis, pancreatitis, triaditis, intestinal lymphoma, and many many more.

Myth #2: Animal by-products listed in the ingredients of cat foods means that the food is low quality and non-nutritious.

False! While most humans don't want animal by-products on their plates (by-products can include bone, skin, eyes, intestines, chicken feet, undeveloped eggs, etc.), they are still very nutritious body parts and in some cultures many by-products are even considered to be delicacies!

When cats hunt and eat their prey (eg. mice), they don't skin them, remove the muscle from the bones, and toss aside the viscera: they eat the entire mouse, rarely leaving any 'by-products' behind!

That said, kitties still need to eat muscle tissue along with the other bits and pieces that may be included in their suppers in order to get enough protein in their food, so a good quality cat diet should contain a significant amount of 'real meat' as well!

Myth #3: I don't need to regulate the amount of food my cat eats because, unlike dogs, cats can regulate their own food intake and will not overeat.

False! Many cats will indulge in overeating just like dogs and humans do. In fact, obesity is becoming an increasingly prevalent problem among North American cats, particularly for indoor cats who are fed dry food. Many cat owners allow their kitties to free feed on dry food, and the food bowls are just topped up with kibble every several days when they're looking a bit low.

Dry food is very calorie dense in comparison with wet food or a natural feline diet consisting of prey species, so the volume of food that is equal to an average cat's daily caloric requirements is relatively small.

This means that many cats do not feel satiated by the small volume of dry food that is equal to their daily caloric needs, and therefore they unwittingly consume excessive calories since they continue to eat more dry food in order to feel full.

Just a few of the reasons that obesity poses health risks to cats include the following: 1) obesity leads to diabetes (a disease that is now rampant in our domestic cat population), 2) early onset of severe arthritis, 3) increased risk of urinary tract problems, 4) increased risk of liver failure when obese cats become ill and stop eating, 5) decreased quality of life due to lethargy and low energy levels, and 6) decreased capacity to have thorough veterinary physical exams performed.

Additionally, unless the amount of food that is fed on a daily basis is quantified, it is very difficult to recognize when a cat stops eating if they are fed dry food. If the food dish is just topped up periodically, it may be a matter of days before their inappetence is noted, at which point illness may have progressed significantly.

Cats naturally eat ten to twenty small meals per day, so it is best to feed them as many small meals (of wet food!) as possible.

Myth #4: Cats only need to be fed once or twice per day.

False! Cats will naturally eat ten to twenty small meals per day, so it is best to feed them as many small meals as possible.

Logistically it can be somewhat difficult for working owners to provide this ideal number of feedings, but when possible, feedings should be done upon waking up, again in the morning before leaving for work, immediately upon returning home from work, and then once or twice more before going to bed.

Leaving a very very small amount of dry food or better yet, high quality freeze-dried meat treats, available in puzzle feeders while away from home during the day, and when in bed during the night, allows cats to enjoy small feedings at their leisure and will encourage natural foraging/hunting behaviors (and may help prevent your kitty from waking you up at 5 AM for their breakfast feeding!).

For practical reasons, wet food needs to be fed in small frequent meals because most cats won't eat wet food that has been out for longer than 30 minutes.

Once wet food has dried up from exposure at room temperature it loses its appeal to cats, and additionally, will grow bacteria, which means it won't be safe for cats to consume.

Wet food should not be left out for more than 15 to 30 minutes and if not immediately placed refrigerated once meal time is finished it should be thrown away.

Myth #5: My cat goes crazy over wet food, and wet food will make my cat fat.

False! While many people make the assumption that wet cat food is fattening, this is a gross misconception.

Intuitively it seems to make sense: wet food smells rich and enticing, many cats gobble their wet food with an enthusiasm they rarely display when presented dry food, and even the moistness of the wet food looks fattening! However, nothing could be further from the truth.

Canned food is approximately 70% to 80% water content, so while it may seem rich and delectable, it is actually very calorically dilute (literally!) in comparison to dry food. It's mostly made of water!

Dry cat food (kibble) is approximately 97% dry matter, and it is extremely calorie dense.

Kibble is similar in concept to a human meal-replacement bar; it's a compact little item that contains all of the nutrients and calories that are required but, who feels full after one little bar?! It would take four or five meal bars to actually feel physically full as though one had eaten an entire meal, and the very same problem exists with dry cat food.

Only a small volume of dry food provides the calories necessary to meet cats' daily caloric needs, but since most cats do not feel satiated by the tiny volume that equals their daily caloric needs, they eat larger volumes than they actually require in time, this leads to obesity which frequently results in diabetes over time.

Myth #6: My cat can eat the same type of food at all stages of life.

False! Kittens, adults, and geriatric cats all have slightly different nutritional requirements, and it is important that they be fed appropriate diets for their stage of life. Additionally, some cats may have particular diseases that may require specific diets to aid with their disease management.

Myth #7: Cats who eat dry food drink more water, so dry food is healthier than wet food.

False! While cats who eat dry food may appear to be ingesting more water (and they certainly do spend more time visibly drinking from their water dishes), in actuality they only consume one third to one fifth of the amount of water over the course of a day as cats who eat canned food do!

The reason that cats who eat canned food ingest so much more water than those eating dry food, is because canned food is anywhere from 70% to 80% water content (in comparison to dry food which is only 3% water content).

Despite the fact that cats on dry diets appear to drink large quantities of water from their water bowls, they actually do not compensate nearly to the point of actually equaling the amount of water that cats who eat wet food consume on a daily basis.

Cats were originally desert creatures and they evolved to have the capacity to concentrate their urine very highly.

Thus, cats who eat dry food only take in enough water to remain adequately hydrated while their kidneys work in overdrive day in and day out, producing highly concentrated urine to bridge the gap for them. In turn this chronically concentrated urine causes urinary crystals, bladder and kidney stones, kidney disease, idiopathic cystitis, urinary obstruction, and many more serious health problems.

Myth #8: Cat treats are not a significant source of calories so I give my kitty lots of them.

False! Depending on the type of cat treats that are being fed, they can be a dangerously high source of calories!

Over-treating your cat can be a contributing factor in the development of obesity, so it's a good idea to know the caloric content of the treats you feed your cat.

For example, Pounce treats are 10 kcal/treat; Temptations are 2 kcal/treat; and MediCal treats are 1 kcal/treat.

So if you give your cat 5 Pounce treats in one day, this is equal to 50 kcal.

Since the average adult cat needs approximately 200 to 250 kcal/day, 5 Pounce treats is actually about one quarter of an adult cat's daily caloric requirements! Which means that their meal portions for that day would need to be significantly reduced.

5 Temptations treats, on the other hand, are only equal to 10 kcal, and so are a relatively low calorie choice.

The bottom line is that you can feed your cat treats, but you need to include your cat's treat calories in their calorie count for the day.

Also, keep in mind that many cat treats are similar to dry food in that they can include many inappropriate ingredients for our little carnivores, including food coloring. For this reason, I tend to stick to freeze dried meat treats - they are much healthier and contain no added ingredients!

Myth #9: Organic cat foods and holistic cat foods tend to include veggies and fruits in them, which means that they are wholesome, higher quality, and more nutritious for my cat.

False! It is true that many organic and holistic cat foods contain veggies and fruits in their ingredient lists. But while the concept of organic cat food is a good one, the fruits and vegetables that are frequently included in these diets tend to actually detract from their overall healthiness and suitability.

Organic food is an important part of healthy living, but unfortunately many organic cat foods that are commercially available today include inappropriate ingredients in their make-up. Vegetables and fruits are included in cat diets purely for marketing purposes. This tactic is very effective because we humans - the consumers! - have the preconceived notion that these items are healthy and wholesome: which they are, but that's because we are omnivores!

Cats are obligate carnivores which means that their digestive tracts are built solely for the purpose of ingesting prey, and are not designed to digest herbivorous food. If cats were pushing their own shopping carts through pet store aisles, the food companies would not be marketing their feline diets with veggie and fruit ingredients, and nor would they be enhancing their diets' appearance with artificial food coloring!

Cats are primary protein users for energy, and the only veggie matter that would normally be ingested by cats would be the very minute amount present in the intestines of their prey, which is already digested. Blueberries, apples, carrots, etc., are simply not appropriate for the feline diet!

Myth #10: Making a home-cooked diet for my cat is easy. I will simply cook some meat for my cat, or perhaps find an online recipe for cat food.

False! Cats have very specific nutritional requirements, including essential amino acids that absolutely must be obtained dietetically.

Significant diseases can develop as a result of vitamin imbalances and amino acid deficiencies, and it is imperative that before switching your cat to a home-cooked diet or a raw diet that you consult with your veterinarian and obtain a balanced recipe and all of the appropriate supplements that must be included.

To read more of Dr. Ko's articles, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com/

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com/ and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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