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New Cat Maze

Keep your kitty entertained for hours with this Cat Treat Maze from the Nina Ottosson range of Pet Puzzle Toys.
A great way to stimulate your cat's natural hunting instincts and make eating dry kibble more satisfying for them. Suitable for all ages and sizes of cats - most standard dry foods or treats can be used.
Another great toy from Nina Ottosson!
Put treats in the hole at the top on both sides of the Cat Treat Maze.
The cat has to work to get the Cat Treat Maze in motion so that it wobbles, rocks and sometimes spins around, so that the treats pass through a maze inside on both sides and then fall out through the openings on both top and bottom.
The Cat Treat Maze is a treat maze that activates and entertains your Cat. The unpredictable movement keeps the toy challenging.
Can be used inside or outside.
All treats that fit in the hole at the top, can come out through the holes on the sides.
Cat Treat Maze is easy to clean, rinse with running water.
Great for supervised play.
Size: 18cm, 7 inches diameter.  Colour: Pink/Blue.
Skill level 2 (Medium).





Tips….
Make it more difficult for the cat to get the treats out by putting a piece of a paper towel in one of the holes of both the top and bottom, so that the treats can only come out of one hole per side.
Let your cat work for his food and feed the meals in the Cat Treat Maze. Perfect for both slow and fast eaters. 
Remember….
Do not let the cat bite or chew on the toy.
Do not leave the cat unattended, teach the cat how to work out the treat pieces.
Have fun together with your cat!
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Play kitten

How can anyone resist a sweet, innocent kitten? Those sweet innocent little balls of fur often hide a surprisingly mischievous side. Some new cat parents find they aren't prepared when these little angels become little furry balls of energy who hang from unstoppable chandeliers, bounce off of walls and pounce on anything that moves. So what is a new kitten-parent to do? Why do kittens need to play with such ferocity and intensity?


Play is essential for learning life skills. Through play, kittens on important social skills, learn the art of hunting and they improve and hone their motor skills. Play also provides essential mental and physical stimulation. And let's face it, the playing is just fun. Sometimes no excuse is needed for a rambunctious play session.


The urge to play starts between the ages of 3-4 weeks. This is especially intense urge to play with kittens are at least one year old? some cats play with high intensity continually until they are two years old. Most cats play throughout their lives, though not with the intensity or frequency as when they were kittens.


The 3 main types of play are: social, industrial and predatory sexual play. Social play helps cats learn limits and boundaries. Through social play cats learn how intense they can play without hurting their playmates. Kittens communicate to each other through vocalizations and body language when their playmate is playing too rough. Social play also helps on important fighting skills, necessary for survival. Better to practice with a sibling then learn in the real world where the stakes are higher.


Predatory play is very important for teaching essential kittens hunting skills. This type of play is typified by kittens stalking, lying in wait and pouncing. In the wild, kitten moms often bring small prey animals back to their kittens to help them on hunting skills essential.


Young, unaltered males start displaying sexual play when they are usually between 4-5 months old. They will jump and pin down their female litter mates, grabbing and holding them on the nape of their necks. Neutering usually puts a stop to sexual play.


The easiest way to properly direct that intense energy play is to provide kittens with playmates. Many behaviorists, breeders and cat rescuers OK that kittens are adopted in pairs, that way they have buddies they can play with to their little heart's content. Instead of incessantly offers playtime from their human playmates, they can focus that energy on their boundless buddies. Of course, that isn't always possible and most people love to play with kittens.


The Rules of Play Engagement There are some basic rules of engagement that should be followed when playing with kittens. If they are ignored, kittens can aggression on challenges which could have been avoided.


‧ Always use toys when playing with a kitten. Never use hands. Using hands when playing with kittens typically results in kittens not understanding boundaries. From the kitten's view point, she doesn't understand why she's sometimes encouraged to bite and grab hands and other times hands and other body parts are off limits.
‧ Don't play with kittens under the sheets. Playing under sheets and bed clothes campaigns leads to kittens and cats attacking their favorite people in the middle of the night while they sleep.
‧ Don't use laser pointers. It may seem to us humans that kittens and cats love chasing them. In reality, chasing laser pointers is frustrating and fruitless. They are trying their very best to capture that dot that can never be captured or killed. Similar to real-life hunting situations, in play, kittens and cats need to have the satisfaction of capturing their prey at least some of the time. Never being able to catch that elusive dot leaves them frustrated and full of adrenalin and may result in play aggression challenges.
‧ Don't insist on playing. If your kitten needs to catch a few winks extra, let her. Be happy for the down time. Engage her in play when she's ready to play.


The best way to play is using a technique that imitates the hunt and parking in predatory play. Start by using a fishing pole type of toy. These types of toys should only be left within reach kitten when you are around to supervise. Cats can accidentally hurt themselves by wrapping the string around themselves or ingesting the toy. Pretend that the toy on the end of the fishing pole is prey that is trying to escape from a predator. Drag the toy at the end of the fishing pole in a way that encourages the kitten to pounce, stalk and attack the toy as if it's prey. If your kitten is inspired by flying prey, launch your toy into the air. Also encourage your kitten to expend energy and exercise by climbing and jumping on different surfaces when she chases the toy. Pulling the toy under objects on top of boxes and inside bags can also inspire kittens.


When you are ready to stop playing, don't just cease playing. Instead, continue to imitate the hunt by slowing the movements of the prey-toy down. Pretend that the prey-toy has fallen victim a few times to it's attacker or perhaps it's tired from the lively chase. Slow the toy down for a few minutes and then finally let the kitten catch the toy one last time. After the kitten makes her last catch for the play session, immediately feed her something she adores. She will eat, groom and go to sleep *.


Kittens need multiple play sessions every day. The most intense sessions should be in the mornings and in the evenings since those are the times that cats are the most active.


For more information, please go to http://www.thecatcoach.com On site and phone consultations available


* This play technique was developed by Pam Johnson-Bennett, a certified animal behavior consultant.


c May 2010 by Marilyn Krieger, CCBC All Rights reserved to Marilyn is certified through the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants


Marilyn Mayo, Certified Cat Behavior Consultant known as The Cat Coach, is an internationally recognized and veterinarian-referred cat behavior specialist, offering both on-site and telephone consultation sessions. Marilyn helps resolve cat behavior issues using a combination of positive methods, including behavior modification, training, management and education. One of her goals is to UI people about cats and cat behavior in order to prevent cats from being surrendered to shelters and euthanized because of resolvable behavior challenges.


Marilyn owns The Cat Coach, LLC a cat-behavior consulting business and is a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC), where she co-chairs the Cat Division.


Her book Cat Fancy's Naughty No More! Change Unwanted Behaviors through Positive Reinforcement, released in January 2011, focuses on changing troublesome cat behavior through a combination of clicker training, management, education and other positive reinforcement methods,


In addition to consulting and writing, Marilyn teaches classes and lectures nationally on cat behavior. She utilizes her expertise as a cat to cat-behaviorist answer behavior calls on Animal Behavior Help Line at the Peninsula Humane Society in San Mateo, Calif. She frequently guests on television and radio programs, providing valuable tips and insight on how to improve cat behavior. Recently, she was featured with her cats on Animal Planet's Cats 101, showcasing clicker training and talking about cat behavior.


For more information about Marilyn and her cat-consulting services, please check out http://www.thecatcoach.com/

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Your kitten's veterinary needs the 1st year of life

Congratulations on the adoption of your new feline! And now...


... you may be wondering, 'what comes next?' What kind of care will your newest, and youngest, family member require?


In addition to all of the TLC that your kitten will receive from you at home, there will be many ways in which your veterinarian will contribute to the health and growth of your kitten during their first year of life. It is important to establish a healthy beginning, and your veterinarian will be essential in this process.


PHYSICAL EXAMS:


Your vet will give your kitten a full physical exam, which means that your kitten's heart and lungs will be listened to, their belly (and all abdominal organs) will be palpated, their temperature taken, skin and coat health assessed, and their teeth, eyes, and ears checked. Your vet will check if your kitten is indeed a male or female (gender confusion is not uncommon in small kittens... sometimes the first trip to the vet means that "Alex" becomes "Alexandra!"). If your kitten is male, your vet will determine whether his testes have descended yet. They will check for the presence of umbilical hernias and other common congenital abnormalities, and will look for ear mites and fleas. If any of these unwanted visitors are present, they will be promptly dealt with by your vet!


VACCINES:


There are three types of vaccinations that kittens receive, and they are administered in a series of boosters, typically at 4 week intervals. FVRCP, FeLV, and rabies are the three vaccines types with which kittens are immunized. FVRCP stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia. Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis is caused by the Feline Herpes Virus -1, and causes upper respiratory and eye infections which can range from mild to severe. Calicivirus is also an upper respiratory virus that can cause both 'colds' and eye infections, but which can have a greater severity of clinical disease, including sudden death in certain highly virulent (pathogenic) strains. Panleukopenia is also a very serious virus. It causes severe bone marrow suppression, intestinal disease, and commonly death. All three viruses in the FVRCP vaccine are extremely contagious. FeLV stands for Feline Leukemia Virus, which will be described briefly below.


On your kitten's first visit (8 weeks old), the first of three FVRCP vaccines will be administered, as well as the first of two FeLV vaccines.


On their second visit (12 weeks old) your kitten will receive an FVRCP booster and the second (and last) FeLV booster.


On their third visit (16 weeks old) your kitten will receive their third (and final) FVRCP booster as well as a rabies vaccine (which does not require additional boosters). This last set of vaccines never occurs earlier than 16 weeks of age, because otherwise there are still maternal antibodies present (viral immunity that was transferred through nursing) which interfere with your kitten's own antibody immune production.


DEWORMING & OTHER CREEPY CRAWLIES:


Your kitten will also be sent home with a broad spectrum deworming medication that is typically administered either orally or topically several times at anywhere from two to four week intervals depending on what type of dewormer your vet has dispensed. Your vet may also instruct you to collect a fresh fecal sample which you can bring to your kitten's next appointment; it will be checked for the presence of parasitic protozoan organisms which the deworming medication does not treat. If your kitten's fecal sample is positive for any of these other parasites, your vet will prescribe medication(s) to treat their infection(s).


VIRAL TESTING:


On the second or third visit, your veterinarian will likely recommend laboratory blood work tests for your kitten. Blood work is done for two reasons. One reason is to check your kitten's viral status (positive or negative) for Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV). FeLV and FIV are retroviruses that spread between kitties, and are the most common causes of infectious deaths among domestic cats. Assessment of your kitten's viral status is particularly important if you have other cats within the household as well.


Kittens can test negative for FeLV and FIV during the incubation phase of infection, so if your kitten was tested at a young age, your veterinarian may recommend testing a second time several months later to ascertain your kitten's negative status.


PRE-ANESTHETIC BLOOD TESTING:


The second reason for which blood work is performed in your kitten's first year of life is to prepare for the general anesthetic that will be needed for your kitten to be spayed or neutered before they reach 6 months of age. A general blood work panel helps to assess the health of the kidneys, liver, and bone marrow so that your veterinarian knows in advance of any abnormal anesthetic and surgical risks your kitten may be affected by.


Spaying and neutering should typically be done between 4 and 6 months of age. This helps lessen the occurrence of certain types of cancers, lessens wandering behaviour, aggression, and also prevents reproductive activity, which is very important due to the high population of feral cats as well as the many unwanted shelter kitties in North America.


When you kitten is under general anesthetic for surgery, it is an opportune time to also give them a microchip. A microchip is a fail-proof form of identification, unlike tattoos which can be blurred over time and are only useful locally, and unlike collars and tags that can come off or become outdated. Microchips are implanted just underneath the skin between the shoulder blades, and then can be read using a scanner. If your kitten ever gets outside accidentally and becomes lost, any veterinary clinic or animal shelter will be able to identify your kitten via the microchip code.


All of this may seem like a crazy jumble of medical terms and concerns, but just keep in mind that you'll need to take your kitty to the vet four times in their first year. Three times for vaccinations, physical checks and bloodwork and once for spaying or neutering.


That is the end of your kitten's first set of health visits to the veterinarian!


At 1 year of age, your cat will be due for a health exam and their 1 year FVRCP and rabies boosters. If you have any questions or concerns before the 1 year milestone, you should not hesitate to contact your veterinarian.


To read more articles written by veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit www.catdoctorko.com


The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.


Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.


catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!


All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com/ and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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What is a Hypoallergenic cat?

The definition of hypoallergenic cat is a cat that is less likely to cause an allergic reaction in humans. Although there is some debate about the existence of truly hypoallergenic cat, it cannot be any debate over the fact that some tribes have more than a reaction caused in humans by others. Hairless Sphynx cats like little certainly cause allergic reaction in humans. Also widely believed that the Siberian cats produce less allergy causing protein Fel d 1 in most other breeds.

Cat allergen
According to medical research, there are a total of five cat allergen. These include the two largest problems for humans, Fel d 1 and d, 4 d Fel Fel Fel d 2, 3 and finally cat IgA.

FEL d 1 explained
FEL d 1 is a protein in cats derived largely from their saliva. It is the main cause for allergies which many people suffer when coming into contact with cats. The function of this protein is aware but when coming into contact with humans, can cause either an allergic or asthmatic response. Female cats produce at a lower level of Fel d 1 as castrated male cats. This had led to the assumption that Fel d 1 is regulated from hormonal action of testosterone. Proteins are sticky enough and insisted on a number of surfaces in the home. There are steps you can take to reduce the amounts currently including frequent washing of clothes, use filters and IERA cats wash themselves.

Hypoallergenic breeds
Cats with little or no hair is considered to be the most effective when trying to choose a breed that will help you to avoid the symptoms associated with cat allergies. The Sphynx is the most popular and well known hairless breed of cat, and a very recognizable. It is extremely intelligent cats and very individual looks is actually quite attractive for some pet owners.

Varieties of cats have hair, Siberia is believed to be the most available hypoallergenic. This breed has been around for many years and Russian tests have been produced at a lower level of allergy causing protein Fel d 1 from other races. As female cats also produce lower levels of this allergen, a female Siberian cat is likely to be a very valuable option for allergy sufferers.

Hypoallergenic cat resources
Find further information about hypoallergenic cats from the excellent http://hypoallergeniccat.org/for the Hypoallergenic Cat site

Is the leading web resource for information hypoallergenic cat and about how to combat food-related allergies cats.


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How to deal with Cat spray Cat spraying and female

I used to have a cat that was bad about the cat in the vents spraying my truck. I broke the putting little sticky Roach traps on the hood of my truck. It became very clear what makes when we had to peel the Roach traps outside of paws. I know that sounds a bit harsh, but it was better than putting up rat traps here or get rid of the CAT.

I got rid of the smell of ink "cat" using cooking soda and bleach. I mixed a little cooking soda and water and poured it in my truck vents along with a little bleach. It seemed to do the trick right away to get rid of the smell of ink "cat".

Usually when a small kitten begins to spray will lift small tail twitch and the front and rear in a vibratory motion. Usually around 6 weeks is not really any spraying should only really comes through. But try, believe me.

Cat spray should not be treated with ammonia, as it will only make it worse. If you notice, cat spray smells like ammonia, sorta. So why would you throw gas on a fire? Will only intensify the smell of ink "cat".

I will give you some solid advice that really works if you want your cat to stop spraying at home or at the same point over and over again.

First yourself Scratch post and put in your garage or the back veranda and if you don't have a garage. An entry cat contains cat NIP, but not many. So then you should go to your local Walmart or where ever you can buy cat NIP. Pour the NIP cat all swap station. The cat or cats would prefer to spray for the Scratch register as apposed to your couch or Chair. Believe me it works really.

There are other tips and tricks that will help you get your cat to stop the spraying, if you love your cat. If you don't have the patience, then the only alternative to spray your cat stop is to get rid of the cat and make yourself an animal not spraying.

I am not a cat expert although I think it could be considered one, albeit for no other reason than the fact that I have had so many cats in my life. Both inside and outside cats.

So if you wanna know really how to deal with your best Cat smell, spray or click this link and visit my blog when I get more penetrating, or you can visit my blog directly here: http://www.cat-spray.blogspot.com/


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Frontline for cats-an effective Flea treatment for cats

The cat flea can be insignificant insect the vast majority of us, but for any cat owners out there can be a real thorn in the side. You don't need much for cats to conclude a flea infestation. A cat, you only need to go outside, you may lie on the ground or the brush around with other cats and before you know it, this is mice.

The flea is very cunning. Flea actually develops within the grass and undergrowth of the outdoors. When an unsuspecting cat them simply hop aboard. Here, fortunately, feed on their blood and egg products. When the cat is out, the eggs are shed over the territory where they hatched in ice and then eventually into fleas and the whole process starts again.

If your cat fleas, each symbol should be addressed immediately, not only for the benefit of your cat, but also to help stop the infection spreading to other cats. It is easy to check your cat for fleas. Simply Check the duration of fur along the back and neck and check their underside, especially a particularly favorite place for fleas to do together. If you see any little black creatures darting to or from their fur, scampering quickly along the skin your cat has fleas, I fear.

Fortunately, there are some truly effective therapies on the market that will help to address this problem. Will not go for any flea powders, but what I would recommend editing is "Spot On", such as Frontline. Frontline for cats actively will kill your cat any infection may have been within 24 hours. Not only that, but your cat that protect against any future attack flea for a full five weeks.

Use Frontline is really easy. Nothing needs to be taken internally, it is an external process to be extremely safe. Everything in a small box, which contains a number of pipettes. You can buy in quantities of 3 or 6 pipettes with pack 6 pipettes are usually significantly cheaper per pipette then the last. The pipettes-backed film themselves blister packages containing liquid treatment, shape similar to that of traditional pipette.

You can manage just clipped the top of the pipette with a pair of scissors, a small area of fur anywhere along the back neck region cat and compressing all content directly from their exposed skin. You should be careful not to get, or at least minimised, with fur that will not to disperse and effectively wasted. This can be somewhat tricky, if you cat evasive around but if you keep the the good, it should be okay.

Once done, any contamination must be wiped out within a 24-hour period. One thing that is truly remarkable about Frontline is to work for a further 5 weeks, killing any fleas on your cat land within a short period of time.

Frontline comes very recommended by not only the vets, but a huge number of cat owners too!

Alice Richards is a regular blog writer and webmaster. It owns two cats in her home in London who tend to sit down such letters would often enough. The preferred flea treatment for cats, Frontline is due to the tremendous effectiveness.


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Top Ten Cat Food Myths and misunderstandings

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Myth # 1: Dry food is better for my cat than wet food.

False! While dry food does leave less residue on cats' teeth, thus creating less plaque buildup and tartar formation, dry food is far less natural for your cat than wet food, and the few dental benefits of dry food do NOT outweigh the health advantages of wet food... there is no contest!

Feral cats hunt mice, birds, and other small prey animals because they are obligate carnivores. When comparing water content, protein, fat, and other elements within the nutritional composition profiles of feline prey species to both dry and wet cat foods, wet foods are more analogous to cats' natural diet than dry foods are - by far!

Wet food is approximately 70% to 80% water content which is similar to the water content of prey species' bodies.

Cats who eat wet food consume 3 to 5 times the amount of water over the course of the day relative to cats who eat dry food.

Cats were originally desert creatures and inhabited areas where water was not freely available for consumption. This means two things: 1) cats are meant to hydrate themselves via their food intake, and 2) their kidneys developed the capacity to produce highly concentrated urine to conserve their body water in times when prey was scarce and water was unavailable. So when cats do not obtain water through their diets because their diet is composed mainly of dry food, their kidneys chronically conserve their body water by producing the highly concentrated urine they are capable of making. Their kidneys spend a lifetime working very hard in order to compensate for their decreased water intake when their diets are composed of dry matter; this water conservation mechanism was only meant to be used in temporary times of need - not as a long-term solution to be used for decades!

Why is water intake so important for cats? Because proper hydration, as obtained via wet diets, helps prevent many human-induced (via dry diets) lower urinary tract diseases and kidney problems.

Additionally, dry food often contains grain fillers (corn, wheat, potato, rice, soy, etc.) that are entirely inappropriate for obligate carnivores to be ingesting. Evolutionarily cats were not built to digest grains. And although there are now a few 'high quality' dry foods on the market that are not made with grains, the fact remains that dry food is still dense (97% dry matter), is hard on cats' GI tracts and still results in decreased water intake. Avoiding dry food and unnatural ingredients in your cats' diets (even the wet ones) helps prevent human-induced diseases (via diet) such as inflammatory bowel disease, eosinophilic enteritis, pancreatitis, triaditis, intestinal lymphoma, and many many more.

Myth #2: Animal by-products listed in the ingredients of cat foods means that the food is low quality and non-nutritious.

False! While most humans don't want animal by-products on their plates (by-products can include bone, skin, eyes, intestines, chicken feet, undeveloped eggs, etc.), they are still very nutritious body parts and in some cultures many by-products are even considered to be delicacies!

When cats hunt and eat their prey (eg. mice), they don't skin them, remove the muscle from the bones, and toss aside the viscera: they eat the entire mouse, rarely leaving any 'by-products' behind!

That said, kitties still need to eat muscle tissue along with the other bits and pieces that may be included in their suppers in order to get enough protein in their food, so a good quality cat diet should contain a significant amount of 'real meat' as well!

Myth #3: I don't need to regulate the amount of food my cat eats because, unlike dogs, cats can regulate their own food intake and will not overeat.

False! Many cats will indulge in overeating just like dogs and humans do. In fact, obesity is becoming an increasingly prevalent problem among North American cats, particularly for indoor cats who are fed dry food. Many cat owners allow their kitties to free feed on dry food, and the food bowls are just topped up with kibble every several days when they're looking a bit low.

Dry food is very calorie dense in comparison with wet food or a natural feline diet consisting of prey species, so the volume of food that is equal to an average cat's daily caloric requirements is relatively small.

This means that many cats do not feel satiated by the small volume of dry food that is equal to their daily caloric needs, and therefore they unwittingly consume excessive calories since they continue to eat more dry food in order to feel full.

Just a few of the reasons that obesity poses health risks to cats include the following: 1) obesity leads to diabetes (a disease that is now rampant in our domestic cat population), 2) early onset of severe arthritis, 3) increased risk of urinary tract problems, 4) increased risk of liver failure when obese cats become ill and stop eating, 5) decreased quality of life due to lethargy and low energy levels, and 6) decreased capacity to have thorough veterinary physical exams performed.

Additionally, unless the amount of food that is fed on a daily basis is quantified, it is very difficult to recognize when a cat stops eating if they are fed dry food. If the food dish is just topped up periodically, it may be a matter of days before their inappetence is noted, at which point illness may have progressed significantly.

Cats naturally eat ten to twenty small meals per day, so it is best to feed them as many small meals (of wet food!) as possible.

Myth #4: Cats only need to be fed once or twice per day.

False! Cats will naturally eat ten to twenty small meals per day, so it is best to feed them as many small meals as possible.

Logistically it can be somewhat difficult for working owners to provide this ideal number of feedings, but when possible, feedings should be done upon waking up, again in the morning before leaving for work, immediately upon returning home from work, and then once or twice more before going to bed.

Leaving a very very small amount of dry food or better yet, high quality freeze-dried meat treats, available in puzzle feeders while away from home during the day, and when in bed during the night, allows cats to enjoy small feedings at their leisure and will encourage natural foraging/hunting behaviors (and may help prevent your kitty from waking you up at 5 AM for their breakfast feeding!).

For practical reasons, wet food needs to be fed in small frequent meals because most cats won't eat wet food that has been out for longer than 30 minutes.

Once wet food has dried up from exposure at room temperature it loses its appeal to cats, and additionally, will grow bacteria, which means it won't be safe for cats to consume.

Wet food should not be left out for more than 15 to 30 minutes and if not immediately placed refrigerated once meal time is finished it should be thrown away.

Myth #5: My cat goes crazy over wet food, and wet food will make my cat fat.

False! While many people make the assumption that wet cat food is fattening, this is a gross misconception.

Intuitively it seems to make sense: wet food smells rich and enticing, many cats gobble their wet food with an enthusiasm they rarely display when presented dry food, and even the moistness of the wet food looks fattening! However, nothing could be further from the truth.

Canned food is approximately 70% to 80% water content, so while it may seem rich and delectable, it is actually very calorically dilute (literally!) in comparison to dry food. It's mostly made of water!

Dry cat food (kibble) is approximately 97% dry matter, and it is extremely calorie dense.

Kibble is similar in concept to a human meal-replacement bar; it's a compact little item that contains all of the nutrients and calories that are required but, who feels full after one little bar?! It would take four or five meal bars to actually feel physically full as though one had eaten an entire meal, and the very same problem exists with dry cat food.

Only a small volume of dry food provides the calories necessary to meet cats' daily caloric needs, but since most cats do not feel satiated by the tiny volume that equals their daily caloric needs, they eat larger volumes than they actually require in time, this leads to obesity which frequently results in diabetes over time.

Myth #6: My cat can eat the same type of food at all stages of life.

False! Kittens, adults, and geriatric cats all have slightly different nutritional requirements, and it is important that they be fed appropriate diets for their stage of life. Additionally, some cats may have particular diseases that may require specific diets to aid with their disease management.

Myth #7: Cats who eat dry food drink more water, so dry food is healthier than wet food.

False! While cats who eat dry food may appear to be ingesting more water (and they certainly do spend more time visibly drinking from their water dishes), in actuality they only consume one third to one fifth of the amount of water over the course of a day as cats who eat canned food do!

The reason that cats who eat canned food ingest so much more water than those eating dry food, is because canned food is anywhere from 70% to 80% water content (in comparison to dry food which is only 3% water content).

Despite the fact that cats on dry diets appear to drink large quantities of water from their water bowls, they actually do not compensate nearly to the point of actually equaling the amount of water that cats who eat wet food consume on a daily basis.

Cats were originally desert creatures and they evolved to have the capacity to concentrate their urine very highly.

Thus, cats who eat dry food only take in enough water to remain adequately hydrated while their kidneys work in overdrive day in and day out, producing highly concentrated urine to bridge the gap for them. In turn this chronically concentrated urine causes urinary crystals, bladder and kidney stones, kidney disease, idiopathic cystitis, urinary obstruction, and many more serious health problems.

Myth #8: Cat treats are not a significant source of calories so I give my kitty lots of them.

False! Depending on the type of cat treats that are being fed, they can be a dangerously high source of calories!

Over-treating your cat can be a contributing factor in the development of obesity, so it's a good idea to know the caloric content of the treats you feed your cat.

For example, Pounce treats are 10 kcal/treat; Temptations are 2 kcal/treat; and MediCal treats are 1 kcal/treat.

So if you give your cat 5 Pounce treats in one day, this is equal to 50 kcal.

Since the average adult cat needs approximately 200 to 250 kcal/day, 5 Pounce treats is actually about one quarter of an adult cat's daily caloric requirements! Which means that their meal portions for that day would need to be significantly reduced.

5 Temptations treats, on the other hand, are only equal to 10 kcal, and so are a relatively low calorie choice.

The bottom line is that you can feed your cat treats, but you need to include your cat's treat calories in their calorie count for the day.

Also, keep in mind that many cat treats are similar to dry food in that they can include many inappropriate ingredients for our little carnivores, including food coloring. For this reason, I tend to stick to freeze dried meat treats - they are much healthier and contain no added ingredients!

Myth #9: Organic cat foods and holistic cat foods tend to include veggies and fruits in them, which means that they are wholesome, higher quality, and more nutritious for my cat.

False! It is true that many organic and holistic cat foods contain veggies and fruits in their ingredient lists. But while the concept of organic cat food is a good one, the fruits and vegetables that are frequently included in these diets tend to actually detract from their overall healthiness and suitability.

Organic food is an important part of healthy living, but unfortunately many organic cat foods that are commercially available today include inappropriate ingredients in their make-up. Vegetables and fruits are included in cat diets purely for marketing purposes. This tactic is very effective because we humans - the consumers! - have the preconceived notion that these items are healthy and wholesome: which they are, but that's because we are omnivores!

Cats are obligate carnivores which means that their digestive tracts are built solely for the purpose of ingesting prey, and are not designed to digest herbivorous food. If cats were pushing their own shopping carts through pet store aisles, the food companies would not be marketing their feline diets with veggie and fruit ingredients, and nor would they be enhancing their diets' appearance with artificial food coloring!

Cats are primary protein users for energy, and the only veggie matter that would normally be ingested by cats would be the very minute amount present in the intestines of their prey, which is already digested. Blueberries, apples, carrots, etc., are simply not appropriate for the feline diet!

Myth #10: Making a home-cooked diet for my cat is easy. I will simply cook some meat for my cat, or perhaps find an online recipe for cat food.

False! Cats have very specific nutritional requirements, including essential amino acids that absolutely must be obtained dietetically.

Significant diseases can develop as a result of vitamin imbalances and amino acid deficiencies, and it is imperative that before switching your cat to a home-cooked diet or a raw diet that you consult with your veterinarian and obtain a balanced recipe and all of the appropriate supplements that must be included.

To read more of Dr. Ko's articles, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com/

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com/ and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


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