I just adopted a kitten: what you need to take care of my kitten?

Congratulations on the furry new addition to your family!

Here is a list of essential items that you need to get started with your kitten:

Kitten Food

Grain & soy free canned kitten food and grain free dry kitten food.

Feed your kitten 95% canned food, and complement it with a tiny amount of dry kitten food on a daily basis to give your kitten something to exercise their jaws on (depending on its age) since they will be teething over the next several months.

NOTE: You do not need to be concerned with rationing your kitten's calories for quite some time... your kitten can essentially eat as much food as they like because they will be developing muscle and bone tissue, and will need a lot of calories to do so! So, let your little feline enjoy as much canned food as they wish to consume! It is quite rare for a young kitten to become obese; your veterinarian will advise you about calorie rationing when your cat is approximately 1 year old.

Food & Water Dishes

Although many pet store kitten starter kits include plastic food and water dishes along with a litter box and scoop, avoid purchasing these! It is healthier for your kitty to eat and drink from glass, ceramic, or steel dishes, rather than from carcinogenic plastic dishes - just as it is for us as well! Additionally, most cats have a notable preference for glass, ceramic, or steel dishes over plastic ones, because they do not leech undesirable stale tastes into their water and food. This is because glass, ceramic, and steel dishes are far more easily cleaned and sterilized since, unlike plastic, they are not porous materials: more convenient for you and tastier for your kitty! Many cats who eat and drink from plastic food and water dishes suffer from feline chin acne as a result of chronic daily contact with them. This common skin reaction to plastic is yet another good reason that plastic dishes best avoided!

Your kitten should have easy access to food and water, so if you have a multiple level home, food and water should be available for your kitten on each level

Remember to clean and refresh your kitten's water supply on a daily basis! - Don't let water become old and stale, and definitely do not let water dishes go dry!

Litter Box

A great perk of adopting a kitten is that there is typically no 'house-training' period whatsoever! It is instinctual for cats to seek out a dirt-like substrate in which they can dig, do their 'business' in, and then bury the evidence! The only tasks required of you are:
showing your kitten where the litter box is located,ensuring the litter box set-up is appropriatemaintaining its cleanliness!

A good litter box is open (not enclosed), shallow-sided, large & roomy, is easily accessible (ie. not hidden away in the basement), and not located in a high traffic or noisy location (eg. next to the washer and dryer)

Like the food and water dishes, litter boxes should be available on all floors in the home, and they should NOT be located by the food and water dishes (we don't really like to eat and drink in the washroom, and neither do our kitties! They are particularly hygiene-conscious creatures and those two types of activities do not mix any better for kitties than they do for us!)

Litter

Clumping litter is preferable because it facilitates cleaning the litter box on a daily basis without the build-up of ammonia from urine, and it also enables you to track the volume and frequency with which your kitten urinates ‧ Unscented and non-dusty litter is best, and it should be kept several inches deep to provide a nice comfortable substrate for your kitten.

Scoop daily, top up the litter weekly, and empty & clean the box monthly Litter Trapping Mat ‧ Small plastic, rubber, or fabric litter mats help catch litter bits that are tracked outside the box by your kitty coming and going, as well as litter that gets kicked out of the box as a result of your kitten's digging and burying actions. Litter mats are most useful when placed directly beside the entrance/exit of litter boxes where the highest volume of litter is tracked.

You can buy litter mats in pet stores or get crafty and make your own!

My favorite type of mat are those made of rubber; they're extremely effective at trapping litter, and are soft and comfortable on kitty's paws (which many other litter mats, such as ridged plastic mats are not)! Try Petmate Litter Catcher Mats, and also keep a handheld broom & dust pan handy for those stray litter particles.

Nail Clippers

Trimming your kitten's claws from a young age is a good idea because they become accustomed to having their paws handled, and in addition, kitten nails feel like little needles when they grow long! Ouch!

Small-sized pet nail clippers work well, but human nail clippers also work if you already have a pair. Give lots of praise and treats while trimming your kitten's nails, and be careful not to cut into the pink part of the claw (that's the equivalent of cutting into the pink part of your own nail!)!! Scratching post

Grooming claws and stretching their digital tendons and muscles are instinctive feline behaviors which start at a young age... so it is best to be prepared and have scratching posts in place when you bring your kitten home, rather than getting started on the wrong 'paw' (eg. your kitten using your favorite arm chair for scratching)!

Not all cats enjoy the same types of scratching posts, so if your kitten does not use the first one you try, do not be shocked... try rubbing catnip on it, try posts with different inclines (horizontal, oblique, vertical), different materials (sisal rope, carpet, cardboard), and make sure they are steady posts with wide, firm bases that will not topple over or move around while being used by your kitten.

Toys

If you plan on feeding your kitty a small amount of dry food each day, it is best to have your kitten 'hunt' it by using a kibble/treat dispensing ball - these are fun, mentally stimulating, and your kitty will be impossibly cute when playing with them.

Some examples are 'SlimCat MultiVet' balls, and 'Play N' Treat' balls - these allow your kitten to exercise both body and mind because they must manipulate the balls in order to get the kibble pieces to fall out... cats are natural predators and food that is available in a bowl is just plain boring!

Cats enjoy toy mice, catnip, cat-grass, laser pointers and many other forms of entertainment. Because cats become quickly bored of their toys though, it is best to have a rotating schedule of what toys are available to them - ie. keep toys hidden in a closet and pull out four different ones each week, so that they are 'new' again.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

http://www.catdoctorko.com/ is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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How to minimize stress when taking your Cat to the VET

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Visiting the vet can be a stressful event for many kitties, but by using a few easily applied techniques you can substantially decrease your cat's anxiety levels. The following are some tips that will make trips to the veterinary clinic much more pleasant!

Find a Feline Practitioner

Not all communities have feline specific veterinary clinics, but if you do live in a region in which there are cat clinics, it's imperative that you take advantage of this!
Your cat's stress levels while waiting in the reception area of the clinic will be substantially less if they aren't sitting 1 or 2 metres away from a loudly barking German shepherd dog!

To look for a feline specific clinic in your area, search the American Association of Feline Practitioners website for all AAFP registered clinics in North America.

Find an ABVP Feline Practice Board-Certified Diplomate

Not all communities will have board-certified feline specialists either, but it's always worth looking because if there is an ABVP Diplomate (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) in your area, it is another great resource for you and your kitty!

ABVP Feline Practice Diplomates are veterinarians who have completed the intensive ABVP species-specific (feline) clinical practice residency program (a minimum of two years), and who have successfully passed the ABVP Specialty Exam.

To search for a Feline Diplomate near you, visit the ABVP website and click on the "Find a Diplomate" button. ( http://www.abvp.com/ )

Have a cat carrier

Cat carriers tend to be inexpensive, although there certainly are some pricey models available these days as well. It's well worth investing in at least a regular, mainstream carrier for your cat, since over the course of your cat's lifetime you will need to travel with them repeatedly.

Some cat owners bring their cats to the clinic by placing them inside gym bags, suitcases, cardboard boxes, laundry baskets, and other such improvised versions of cat carriers. This is an unwise decision for multiple reasons.

Part of an improvised carrier needs to remain open so the cat inside can breathe which means that they can easily escape from it. Cats will often seize the opportunity to jump out while they are being carried through clinic parking lots, which are highly dangerous places since they can easily be hit by cars.

Gym bags, duffel bags, purses, and other such items have no firm structure to them since they aren't built to support animals, unlike soft sided cat carriers. Without sturdy bottoms in their carrying bags cats feel unsupported and insecure which greatly increases stress levels and may even cause them to panic.

Additionally, improvised bags don't have nice familiar odours inside so they don't impart any sense of comfort to cats since they are not items which kitties use regularly in the home.

Carrying cats from the car to the clinic in one's arms is even more dangerous than using improvised carriers since cats can escape even more easily in this kind of scenario.

Cats are already tense and a bit frightened after experiencing the car ride to the clinic, and are prone to bolting - many clinics are situated on busy roads, and I have seen more than one cat unexpectedly get away from owners that were intending carry them into the clinic!

Have the RIGHT carrier

Carrier should be large enough that cats can comfortably stand up and turn around... you might be surprised to know how frequently cats arrive in clinics squeezed inside kennels that they outgrew 10 years prior when they entered adulthood!

Carriers best suited for going to the vet are ones with snap tops that are easily removed. These are extremely handy because cats can remain comfy and snug in the bottom half of the carrier through the majority of their exam, and can then be gently lifted out when better access is needed to complete the exam or perform procedures. This method of extracting cats from their carriers is far less stressful than 'dumping' them out of their carriers.

Keep your cat's carrier out & available for their use at all times

Your cat's carrier should not be associated only with use for trips to the vet clinic and other stressful events such as air travel, otherwise your cat will associate the carrier with these negative experiences - upon seeing the carrier your cat's fear and anxiety levels will amplify instantaneously, irrespective of why you have brought it out of storage.

If the cat carrier only appears out of the front hall closet the day before a trip to the veterinarian's office, your cat will quickly learn that it's time to go into hiding until the carrier disappears from view once again!... Chasing your cat down and retrieve them from underneath the bed only results in heightened stress levels for both of you before you've even left the home, and can also result in missed veterinary appointments.

Place a comfortable pad or blanket in the bottom of the carrier.

Your cat should consider their carrier a safe haven, a place that they frequent for little cat naps - the carrier should be associated with a sense of security and their home environment so that when your kitty travels in their carrier they know that they are inside their safe haven.

What to put inside the carrier (aside from your cat!)

As mentioned above, the carrier should be a comfortable environment with a familiar cushion or blanket inside.

Many cats like to burrow themselves and hide under their blankets when they are stressed, so this not only provides them with familiar smells, but also allows them to retreat underneath when they are stressed.

Provide some treats and familiar toys in the carrier to create a positive association with being inside the carrier.

This should be done not only when traveling to the vet clinic, but also on a regular basis at home.

Pheromones!

There is now a synthetic version of cats' 'happy pheromone.' Kitties naturally produce this happy pheromone within skin glands that are located by their cheeks.

When cats are happy and content they rub up against people and nearby objects, depositing their happy cat facial pheromones all around them.

The synthetic form of this molecule is called Feliway, and is fairly inexpensive.

Use of the synthetic version can greatly decrease cats' anxiety levels while travelling!

To use Feliway:

Spray the entire inner surface of the carrier as well as the blanket inside, with Feliway, starting 24 hours before the veterinary visit. Repeat this at least four times during the 24 hour period prior to the visit in order to build up a good coating of Feliway in the carrier. Don't spray the carrier and place your cat immediately within it - leave at least 15 minutes because alcohol is one of the carrier molecules in Feliway and should have time to evaporate since cats don't enjoy the scent of alcohol!

Desensitize your cat to car travel

A significant stressor when bringing a cat to the vet is the transportation which leads to their arrival at the clinic... car rides often put cats into panic mode long before they even set paw inside the clinic itself!

Car rides are an infrequent experience for most cats. Cars are also noisy and mobile. Many cats don't cope well with new situations, let alone situations involving engine noises and fast, unpredictable movements.

Car travel is like an overwhelming sensory assault to cats; it creates simultaneous auditory, visual, olfactory, and tactile stimuli and there is no time during which cats can acclimate to the situation. This kind of travel experience creates negative associations in cats' minds, and they will not relish future repeats of the experience!

To help your cat deal more effectively with transportation the solution is helping your cat slowly adjust to the experience in small increments. Once your cat is accustomed to being in the car, take your cat for car rides that don't end up at the veterinary office so they don't automatically associate car trips with vet visits!

Ideally cats should be acclimatized to travel in kittenhood, but later in life is still better than never.
Place your cat in your car without starting the engine. Don't go anywhere, simply allow your cat to explore a bit and just sit in his or her carrier, becoming familiar with the car's appearance and smells. Provide lots of treats, praise, and positive attention.Once your cat has been inside the car multiple times and seems fairly comfortable with it, then place your cat in the car and start the engine. Again, do not go anywhere, just allow your kitty to understand that the noise of the engine is not a threat, it is simply a background noise.Once your cat is accustomed to the noise of the engine and the feel of its vibrations, go for your first short car ride. Keep your cat safely enclosed in their carrier, take turns slowly and gently, and do not open the windows or have music playing. Drive slowly around the block or just around the parking lot and that will be enough for your cat's first ride.Next, take your kitty for a longer drive. Again, go slowly, keep the windows closed and the car radio off. The motion of the car ride alone, combined with the sight of other vehicles on the road and the traffic noise will be more than enough for your cat to contend with.Again, reward your cat with lots of treats, praise, and stroking once the drive is over but you are still in the vehicle. When you return home, give your cat one of their favourite foods - tuna, liver bits, cooked turkey, or whatever they love most!

Once your cat knows how to cope with travel it won't be a major stressor when you need to transport them to the vet clinic - it will simply be one of many little rides they have experienced and they'll know that there will be a delicious meal awaiting them upon their return home!

Your cat's demeanor inside the vet clinic

When a cat is in a clinic they may behave in ways they have never behaved at home. They may growl, hiss, swat, be generally uncooperative, or even try to bite. These actions do NOT mean that they are "bad cats" - they are simply frightened and are reacting to what they perceive as a scary situation with natural defensive feline behaviour.

Some owners admonish their cats if they believe their cat is 'misbehaving' in a veterinary office. Some go so far as to yell aggressively, tap or smack their cat on the nose or head, or they even spank their cat's rear end. This should NEVER ever be done.

This form of 'discipline' may be a reaction to owners' embarrassment about their cat's behaviour, but it's critical to know that these are normal cat behaviours and veterinarians understand this better than anyone! There is no need to apologize or feel embarrassed about feisty cat behaviour because vets will not think these frisky cats are "bad cats" - veterinarians deal with fractious kitties on a daily basis and are trained to handle scared, aggressive cats in a safe and gentle manner.

Yelling at a cat, or worse, tapping or smacking them, only serves to heighten the their stress levels, and is always a BAD idea. Yelling at and smacking a cat makes the kitty even more frightened and reactive - not only are they now in a foreign environment but their one source of comfort and familiarity, their owner, has become scary and foreign as well.

'Punishing' a cat makes the veterinarian's job of handling the frightened cat even harder. Additionally, it creates a negative memory of the clinic in the cat's mind which means that the next visit will be even more stressful than the last one, and the cat may behave even more defensively.

The best action to take if your cat is upset, is to pet and reassure them when your veterinarian requests that you help them by providing positive distractions during their physical exam. Otherwise, it's best not to interfere until your veterinarian is finished. Once the exam is over, lots of praise, treats, and positive attention are warranted.

Social time at the clinic!

An excellent way of teaching your cat that a visit to the clinic is not a scary event, is to bring your cat in for visits when he or she does not require an exam or procedure of any kind.

Call your veterinary clinic in advance to ensure that it is a good time to visit - you do not want to impede work happening at the clinic if they are extremely busy, and you also do not want the visit to be too overwhelming for your kitty if it is a bit chaotic at the time of your planned visit. For instance, mornings when surgical procedures are being done may be a convenient time - the clinic will not be busy in the waiting room and exam rooms, and your kitty may be allowed to spend lots of time exploring the reception area and elsewhere.

Bring some food along for your cat, and feed him or her in one of the exam rooms if possible. Play with some toys and some catnip, and see if one or two staff members of the clinic are available to play with your cat for a short period of time.

Practice makes perfect

Train your cat to accept certain kinds of physical manipulation that are similar to routine procedures done at veterinary clinics. If your cat is used to these procedures at home, then veterinary exams will be less stressful and will be better tolerated by your cat.

Slowly teach your kitty to accept having their paws touched, nails unsheathed, being groomed, having their teeth brushed, ears cleaned, and having their belly's touched.

Start practicing with your cat as soon as you can - from kittenhood ideally, but training your cat in adulthood can work as well.

To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. c 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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New Pattern Cat Collars

Red Dingo is an Australian company who have put together a wide variety of Cat collars and tags to suit all kinds of feline customers. Big or small, dark or ginger there’s something for every fur coat. All the products are strength and safety tested to the highest quality standard in manufacturing terms, embracing design without ever compromising functionality.


The Fishclip buckle is engineered in acetal plastic and really adds that designer detail. It includes a safety release clip, designed to release under a 2kg/4lb load. 
They’re made from high density fray proof tough woven nylon again for durability and reduced wear and tear.

12mm x 20-32cm

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New Reflictive cat collars

Why not take a look at our New Reflective Cat Collars by Kittykit.

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How to Bathe a Cat

How To Bathe a Cat With a Minimum of Fuss

Cats generally do a good job of keeping themselves clean but, for various reasons, there will be occasions you'll need to bathe your kitty. It's not as hard as you may think, once you both know the routine, so practice when your cat is young.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: 30 minutes

Here's How:

1. Assemble your 'tools' next to the kitchen sink: two thick towels, cat shampoo, conditioner (for longhaired cats), two large cups or mugs, clean sponge.
2. Put a rubber shower mat in the bottom of the sink so kitty will not slip and slide.
3. Run about two to three inches of body-temperature water into the sink -- just enough to come up to kitty's belly. Test the water on your wrist, much as you'd test a baby bottle. You should not be able to discern heat or cold.
4. Place a capful of the cat shampoo in a mug of warm water and mix well, to keep from shocking warm cat flesh with cold Cat shampoo.
5. Pick up your kitty and lower her gently but quickly into the water, talking calmly to her all the while. Another human helper is optional at this step.
6. Give her a few minutes to relax to the idea that you aren't going to kill her, all the while talking to her and petting her.
7. Turn on and test the temperature of the shower spray and, holding it right up against the cat's skin, wet her body, taking care not to splash in her face.
8. When she is well soaked, pour the diluted shampoo evenly over her entire body, again staying away from the head.
9. Massage the shampoo gently into her fur for several minutes. Now is your chance to give her a full body massage. You may even find that she enjoys it.
10. Rinse well, using body-temperature water and the shower nozzle, stroking it the way you would a brush, in long strokes from the base of her neck down over her tail. You can gently pat some water on her tummy at this time, with your other hand.
11. Give her several long petting strokes with your hand to slick away excess water and to test for any remaining soapiness.
12. Repeat steps 11 and 12 until all evidence of soap is gone. This is the most important process, as soap residue can dry her skin, leaving it vulnerable to rashes and infection.
13. With a clean, moist sponge, wipe down the back of her head and her muzzle, again being careful to avoid her eyes, ears and mouth.
14. Using a large bath towel, lift kitty out of the sink and pat her down, using the towel to blot up as much water as possible.
15. Repeat step 13, using another clean towel, then leave her alone to continue the drying process by herself. Don't forget the praise!

Tips:

1. If your cat won't tolerate the shower spray, use a large measuring cup to pour the water over her in steps 7 and 11, taking care not to splash.
2. If your cat is cool with it, you can use a hair dryer set on low to speed up the drying process. This is helpful with longhairs, but don't brush until completely dry.
3. Although not necessary, diluted cream rinse may be applied after the first rinsing, then thoroughly rinsed out.
4. Pop a cotton ball in each ear to prevent water from accidentally entering.
5. Some cat owners prefer to sit with their cat in a bathtub filled with several inches of warm water. This is a viable alternative for some cats who love water, but you lose a degree of control with frightened cats.

What You Need:

• Rubber mat for sink
• Shampoo for cats
• Conditioner / cream rinse
• Cups or small pans
• Cotton balls

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Skin Allergies in Cats

Allergies are the most common cause of skin disease in cats. They are three main types, but cats can be affected by multiple allergies.  Try Pet Head for Cats

1. Flea Allergy - Fleas cause up to 80% of skin problems in cats.
2. Food Allergy - Reactions to foods or additives cause either skin problems or vomiting and diarrhoea. It is unusual to see both in any one cat.
3. Atopic Dermatitis - Atopic dermatitis is caused by an allergy to house dust mites, pollens or moulds.

Other causes of skin problems include lice or mites, fungal infections, auto-immune or internal diseases and cancers, but these are much less common than allergies.

SYMPTOMS
The hallmark of an allergy is itchiness, although some cats rarely scratch or lick in front of their owners. Furballs or hairs around the tongue, teeth or house may be signs of excessive licking. Some cats will appear to go bald, although the hairs are really being broken off by licking. Fleas can cause small crusts along the back (called miliary dermatitis) whereas crusting and ulcers around the head and neck may suggest food allergies or ear mites. Some cats develop large red, moist and weeping sores (called eosinophilic plaques), on the belly and legs.

FIRST LINE DIAGNOSIS
Your vet will want to rule out lice and mites, and treat any infections before investigating allergic diseases. Some cats scratch and lick where they are experiencing pain so vets also need to rule out arthritis, other pain or cystitis.

1. FLEA ALLERGY
Rigorous flea control should be the first step, irrespective of whether fleas can be found. It only takes a few fleas to set off a reaction in allergic cats. The best products to use on your cat are long-acting sprays and spot-on remedies prescribed by your vet like Frontline, Stronghold or Advantage. Over-the-counter products are ineffective and may even be toxic. Eggs and larvae in carpets and furnishings should also be treated. Sprays with an insecticide and growth inhibitor, such as Indorex, Acclaim, Canovel Pet Bedding and others, are most effective for these. There is also another product, Program, (available as a pill, a liquid or an injection) which does not kill fleas but stops their eggs hatching in the first place. This prevents fleas from re-establishing themselves. All these products are available from your vet. Flea control trials usually last for 4-5 weeks. Remember to treat all the dogs and cats in the house and continue indefinitely ­ stop treatment and the fleas will return.

REFERRAL
Just as in human medicine, there are general and specialist vets. There are a number of veterinary dermatologists throughout the UK. Referral appointments can only be made through your own vet, who may suggest a referral, or you can ask them to make an appointment for a specialist opinion

2.FOOD ALLERGIES
The next step is to investigate food allergy. Your vet will recommend a trial diet using foods new to your cat. Home cooked diets using a single protein (e.g. meat or fish) and carbohydrate (e.g. rice or potatoes) with water to drink are best. Give the same amount as tinned or half-again as much as dry foods. Hypoallergenic diets are available from your vet if necessary. Other cat-foods contain a variety of ingredients that vary from batch to batch and are not suitable. Trial diets should be fed for six weeks. Cats should not be fed anything else during the trial. Cats that hunt or are fed elsewhere may need to be kept indoors.

Allergic diseases will wax and wane, so an improvement does not necessarily mean the cat has food allergy. A relapse within 1-2 weeks on the original diet confirms a food allergy. Once stable again on the trial diet, introduce ingredients such as beef, lamb, dairy products etc. one at a time to discover which the cat reacts to. These can then be avoided. Alternatively, a prescription hypoallergenic diet can be tried. Zennor, the cat in the photo, had a food allergy and recovered completely when given a prescription hypoallergenic diet

3. ATOPY OR ATOPIC DERMATITIS
If skin problems persist then allergy tests should be used to identify what your cat is allergic to - the allergens - for treatment or avoidance. Allergy tests should be carried out by an experienced veterinary dermatologist.
a) Skin testing. Cats are sedated and the fur on the side of the chest clipped. Several dust mite, insect, pollen and mould extracts are injected and any reactions noted. Most reactions occur within 20 minutes although some may take 12-24 hours. Skin tests are very specific, but some cats have negative tests.
b) Serological tests. A blood sample is taken and sent off for laboratory testing. The tests show which allergens are producing antibodies in the blood. Serological tests are not quite as exact as skin tests, and are not necessarily cheaper. They are useful if skin tests fail, or if the cat's skin is in such bad condition that a skin test cannot be run.

TREATMENT
1. Basic Treatment
Thorough flea control is important in all cases of allergic skin disease. Regular worming and a high quality balanced diet will also be of benefit. Cat Shampoo
2. Lifestyle Management
Some allergens can be avoided. Dust mites and pollens are ubiquitous, but keeping cats out of bedrooms and carpeted rooms, using solid or washable cat-beds, vacuum cleaners with filters and improving ventilation will help.
3. Immunotherapy
Most veterinary dermatologists use immunotherapy to desensitise your cat by giving regular injections of allergens identified by skin or blood tests. Most cats tolerate the injections very well. Your vet will usually administer the first few injections in the unlikely chance of an allergic shock, or anaphylactic, reaction, but most owners give the injections at home thereafter. Mild itching and injection site nodules are minor problems. Approximately two thirds of cases respond to immunotherapy.
4. Anti-inflammatory Treatment
Anti-inflammatory treatment may be necessary if your cat does not respond to immunotherapy. Short-term treatment may be used during flea control or food trials.

a) Antihistamines
Many of these drugs are available from pharmacists, but the doses in cats are different from people, and they should only used under veterinary supervision. Your vet will try 3-4 drugs to select the most effective. Side effects are uncommon, but include sedation and vomiting. Only about 50% of cats respond to antihistamines, although the response is better if they are combined with essential fatty acids.
b) Essential Fatty Acids
These are fish and plant (e.g. Evening Primrose or Borage) oils. Veterinary products are preferred unlike cheaper brands that vary from batch to batch. The initial course is usually eight weeks, although again no more than 50% of cases respond.
c) Steroids 
These are cheap and effective, but can have serious side effects (including weight gain, excessive drinking and urinating, infections, diabetes, liver and skin problems) and are generally used as a last resort. Many cats tolerate low doses of steroids given on alternate days quite well. Using other treatments often reduces the dose required. Cats on long-term steroids should have regular check ups.

5. Other Treatment Options
Without controlled studies it is difficult to know if alternative remedies are of any benefit. Many human remedies can be quite toxic in cats and should only be given under veterinary supervision. Female sex hormones (e.g. Ovarid®) have little role in feline dermatology. Serious side effects are common, and these drugs should only be used to treat specific conditions by an experienced veterinary dermatologist. Any alternative remedies should be passed by the vet before being used.

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Funky Cat Collars

Why don't you get your Kitty, some Bling for spring!! Funky Cat collars

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