In internal or external, which is best for your Cat

Cats are unique to dogs more often, allowing your cat wandering neighborhood night is perfectly acceptable. But I have decided either to your cat is a cat only indoors or allow them some outdoor freedoms? Here are some things you should consider.

Most cats will want to go out no matter what you choose for them, but some, especially cats that have been out, it can make things even more complicated. It is almost as if they are not particularly care about your judgment either way. For this reason, the best you can do for yourself and your concern is to maintain the cat coherency since birth, or at least from the point at which the vote. It is easier to convince a cat kept indoors at all times, if you have retaining means since it was a kitten.

The upsides to make a cat a feline indoor is quite large. Firstly, this will reduce many of the risks to your cat's life. Cars, coyotes and based on cat diseases are common in your home. Because of this, indoor-only cats are, on average, a much longer life than a cat who lived outside of all his life, or even a part of. Indoor cats are also cleaner and have virtually no chance of dragging a dead mouse or unwanted birds or in the dirt and monitoring inside your carpet.

However, keeping your cat indoors at all times will increase the need to clean the litter box, you will not have any other option for the care of their waste. Outdoor cats have a much more "natural" places to do business, but an indoor only cat has only one (hopefully not also including your sneakers). Also the outdoor cats are generally more delicate as it is far more active than cats indoors. This is mainly due to the confinement can provide a home, as well as the increased level of activities of the outside world.

The hard option then it is really all up to longevity, although nothing guarantees a long life, regardless of what to do. I've seen indoor only cats ill and passing away at earlier ages and only outdoor cats stay around for years. My personal sad experience has an internal/external cat moved indoor-only cat who passed away in only seven years-aged rapidly from one night and drinking some anti-freeze someone had placed on their doorstep, because he was unhappy with all the cats in the neighborhood. Basically, there is no telling what will happen.

Therefore, to look at the options that you have at your disposal and consequently the plan. Your cat will be happier inside or outside? Do you live near a busy street or the country? Do you mind dead snake to your doorstep again? Just remember to choose wisely.

For more information about cat and cat training, head over to SimplyCatBreeds.org now!

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Steps to make your own Cat bed

Cats spend most of their days sleeping. That is why it is important that you provide them with a bed that fits your needs.

You may find it convenient to buy a ready-made bed for your pet. But, of course, you can save more money, and you can make the best bed for your cat, if you can create one by yourself.

You will be able to build one that has the correct size for your cat to fit comfortably. Also, there is the advantage of being able to choose the material that you know are safe to use. Additionally, you can show your creativity with the bed you are.

Here are the steps on how to make a cat bed

Project. You need to know how big the cat. This is so you can begin designing a plan for the bed side. The dimensions must be accurate, so that the bed will be exactly the right size for your cat. You do not want to be too small and you don't want to be too long either.

Sleeping behaviors of your cat should also be considered. Some cats like to sleep in a crouching position, while there are others who sleep with their bodies stretched out. These will largely affect the decision about how much you will make your cat's bed.

Your plans will also include determining what material to use. Wood is the most affordable hardware and is also the easiest way to manipulate even by people who don't have extensive knowledge of carpentry. However, you will need a huge effort. Some people are not too much effort and use an already-made car to serve as the bed itself. You can also do so. Planning can include even the duty to decide what color you are the bedding.

Gather necessary materials. After you've put together what is going to make the bed, you will need your hardware. Need to buy the wood if you decided to do a small bed wood. You should find baskets or Wicker growers if you decide to use such material.

Pillows, a layer of foam or even soft cloth can be enough to serve as the mattress for bed cat. You also have another element which would serve as a small pillow for your cat.

Measure and cut. What are the elements that you need to Measure and cut? Well, if you are using the wood, you will need to cut the pieces into dimensions that you have. Foam/pillows/cloth must also be reduced to the desired size that will fit in the bed.

Sew and paste. It is necessary to sew pieces of cloth that you've chosen to use. This is so that it does not get crumpled and thus destroy the bed. These can also be pasted together as this is a quick solution. But, to be sure you are using the glue is toxic for your pet.

Ella Hall enjoys writing for Thecatpetshop.com, which sells cat bed and cat carrier, and a host of additional products.

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The reasons people give up their Cat

I am a cat owner, so I know what I want to attach a furry little Companion. I've also volunteered at an animal shelter, so I have had the opportunity to see what it is like the decision to surrender your pet. Nine times out of ten is not the decision is easy. But I understand some people still have grounds to the cat. Here you will find only some of these reasons.

Moving: a long time, the decision comes down to something as simple as moving but we need to be able to take your cat with you. Suppose you can get a job in another city and you need to move, but only the partition on which you can find does not allow pets. Comes in having your cat to surrender, provided that you can't find a family member to care until you can find another apartment pet friendly.

Change in lifestyle: Let's say baby, but we know that your cat is the type of funny and effective enough to scratch and bite anything. This is a hazard to the newborn baby, your cat, so the choice is based on the need to look for your child's well-being. Another instance is if you have a medical condition where you simply cannot care for your cat. These are perfectly reasonable statements for your cat to a shelter delivery.

Behavior problems: sometimes you discover that it is not going to vanish with time cat negative behaviors, but instead becoming worse. It is very common to have a cat that meows out loud in the middle of the night, apparently without reason, leading to sleepless nights and general malaise and discontent with your pet. The time required to train the cat may be unavailable or the money needed could be more than they can afford to be the only option left to ask for approval. This is not an issue that lazy, it is just a matter of Control priorities. If you are working two jobs and need sleep, but not at any time of day to spend with your cat, leading them to pester you at night, you must place the cat to a new home, a home to devote the necessary time to make your cat just makes sense.

Most cat owners are given the option, you will always choose to keep the cats around rain or shine. But we cannot always afford. Keep an open mind for owners of domestic animals such as cats, their surrender would be a situation that you yourself find it later in your life.

For more information about cat or tips about cat health, head over to SimplyCatBreeds.org now!

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How can your Cat tablets

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So, you and your cat are back home after a visit to the vet. You have two bottles of medication in your hand and instructions to medicate your cat three times (eek!) per day. You aren't quite sure how your cat will feel about this plan. You anxiously glance at your kitty, now curled up comfortably on the couch. Kitty opens one eye which boldly stares back at you... the look in kitty's eye is unmistakable. It says, "just you try to medicate me, Human. By the time you've made your last futile attempt, YOU will be the one needing a visit with the doctor and some medication." But, don't panic! There are lots of tricks available to help you medicate your cat in an effective, relaxed, and danger-free manner!

Pill Pockets

Pill pockets work best for food motivated kitties. They come in two tasty flavors, salmon and chicken.

Pill pockets are hollow, soft treats into which you place the tablet or capsule and then 'mush' the opening of the pill pocket closed so that the medication does not fall out.

Disadvantages to pill pockets are that cats that are not food motivated are unlikely to voluntarily eat them.

Another disadvantage is that if your cat accidentally bites into the pill pocket and tastes an unpalatable medication inside, they will be unlikely to ever be fooled by pill pockets again! Also, some cats will learn to eat all around the pill, consuming just the pill pocket and leaving the medication behind.

Flavored Chews

For long term medication options, flavored chewable treats are a very pleasant option.

Medicated chews need to be compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and do tend to be more expensive than the regular drug.

Compounding flavored chews works best for medications that are not particularly strong tasting and unpleasant, otherwise cats may still detect the taste of the medication and reject the chew treat (ie. many antibiotics cannot be successfully made into flavored chews).

To figure out what flavor your cat prefers before ordering a large quantity of medicated chews, ask your veterinarian to try non-medicated samples: generally flavored chews come in varieties such as tuna, chicken, liver, shrimp, seafood medley, and beef.

Flavored Liquids

Flavored medications in liquid form also need to be specially compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and are also available in a variety of flavors palatable to cats.

Many people find liquids easier to administer to their cats than pills.

Liquids (non-flavored)

Many medications come in liquid form as well as pill form.

Liquids are not necessarily any more tasty in comparison to their pill counterpart (most are sweetened for human consumption and are banana or cherry flavored - since cats cannot taste sweetness, all that they taste is the flavor of the medication itself), but many owners find liquids easier to administer than pills.

Ask your veterinarian if there is a liquid form of the medication they have prescribed if you are having trouble giving your cat the pill form.

Keeping the liquid in the fridge (unless the medication specifically cannot be kept at such a cool temperature) may help decrease the distastefulness of the medication and make it less unpleasant for your cat to swallow.

Clear Gel Capsules

Many medications have very strong, unpalatable tastes - when these medications are prescribed in tablet form they can be particularly unpleasant, and often chalky, for cats to swallow.

Particularly when a medication is being administered long term, placing tablets into clear, flavorless gel capsules can be an excellent idea - your cat will likely resent the entire procedure much less if it does not involve an unpleasant taste that makes he or she salivate for ten minutes afterwards.

Clear gel capsules can typically be obtained at your veterinarian's office, and if they are not routinely kept in hospital, then they can likely order some in particular for you.

Some tablets may be too large to fit inside the gel capsules, so you may want to purchase a pill splitter at your pharmacy in order to cut up the tablets into halves or quarters that will fit more easily into the gel caps.

The drawback to using gel capsules is that they start to dissolve as soon as they touch moisture - ie. as soon as they are inside your cat's mouth!

So, the key here with gel capsules is to ensure that you have your pilling technique finessed and to always have extra water syringes nearby so that you can flush the capsule down with more water if needed (ie. if the capsules becomes 'stuck' to your cats tongue or roof of the mouth).

Pilling Techniques & Steps:

Step I: Organize Supplies

It is essential to everything you need prepared and ready to gobefore you approach your kitty to administer their medication. Have your pills ready on your right side (or if you are left-handed, have them on your left side). Have your syringes filled with water ready alongside the pills

It is IMPERATIVE that you administer water to your cat to help him or her swallow their medication. It is unfair and unsafe to assume that cats can swallow their medication without the help of water, and this is a topic that is all too often neglected when educating owners on how to medicate their cats. Studies have proven that cats that are forced to 'dry swallow' their medications do not successfully swallow their medications all the way down the length of their esophagus - in fact, after 5 minutes post dry swallow, only 36% of cats had the pills in their stomachs.

The esophagus is a very thin, delicate tissue, and it is not protected from caustic substances by a thick mucus layer as the thick, tough stomach walls are.

This means that when medications dissolve within the esophagus, as they do when cats are forced to dry swallow them, the esophagus is vulnerable to sustaining serious and painful injury from the dissolving medication.

Unfortunately, your cat cannot alert you to the fact that this is happening, and that they are experiencing painful 'heartburn,' but it is the reality of forcing them to swallow medications without water - most cats will simply withdraw after being pilled, and many owners assume that this is a result of the stress of the pilling event, and do not recognize it as an expression of pain.

Step II: Methods of Restraint - "Kitty Burrito" Technique

It is important to know that frequently 'less is more' with cats when it comes to restraint and physical manipulation. The more practice you get at administering medications to your cat, the easier it will become. So have patience, and remember that practice will make perfect. As you become more proficient at this task, the less stressful the event will be for your cat, the less protestation they will make, and as a result it will become even easier to accomplish.

Occasionally owners are anxious about restraining their cats and ensuring that their kitty cannot escape while they are administering their medication(s). One method of restraining your cat effectively and in a manner that does not increase his or her stress level, is by making a 'kitty burrito.' (Ultimately, it is best if minimal restraint is used, but during the learning curve, it is acceptable to ensure that your cat cannot escape from you and further complicate the process.)

To use the 'kitty burrito' technique, follow these steps:

Place a towel on the floor in front of you.

Place your cat on the towel so that they are lying down (upright), facing away from you.

Wrap the towel around your cat just like you would wrap a present or a burrito, leaving your cat's head uncovered, but both forelimbs snugly tucked inside the towel.

Place your feline 'burrito' on the floor between your knees facing away from you. Cats enjoy feeling snug and secure, and wrapping them in a towel will decrease the amount of struggling they will do.

Minimal Restraint Technique

If not using the 'burrito' technique, simply ensure that your cat is facing away from you, and then approach your cat from behind. This can be done while your cat is on a table, or on the floor, but generally speaking it is easiest when accomplished sitting on the floor with your cat.

Place one hand on your cat's chest so that they do not run away while you are getting organized. The reason you want your cat to be facing away from you is because this way they have nowhere to back into (because they will back into you), and with one hand lightly on their chest, they cannot run away either.

Step III: Opening Your Cat's Mouth

My Favorite Technique

Gently tilt your cat's head upward. Place your left hand (that was previously on your cat's chest) under their chin and apply slow and steady pressure in an upward motion.

When your cat is looking up at you, place your right index fingertip between your cat's lips and you will be able to feel a gap between their upper and lower jaws where there is a space between their teeth. The space is just behind their canine teeth and in front of their premolars. f you poke your finger in this small space, your cat will automatically open up their mo

When your cat opens their mouth for that split second, with your right hand (which has the pill ready), pop the pill as far back into the throat as possible.

Traditional Technique

With your left hand grasp your cat's upper jaw and gently pull their head (and upper jaw) upward.

Your thumb is placed on the right upper jaw while your index and middle finger hold your cat's left jaw.

Your fingers should be just behind your cat's canine teeth when grasping their upper jaw.

With your right hand pick up your cat's pill between your thumb and forefinger, and then placed your middle finger on the front aspect of your cat's lower jaw.

Your middle finger is used to pry your cat's jaws apart by placing it on your cat's lower incisors - cats' incisors are small and dull, so you will not be injured by this maneuver.

Apply gentle but steady pressure on your cat's lower jaw until their mouth is open.

With your cat's mouth open, quickly drop the pill as far back as you can to the base of the tongue.

Note: The traditional technique requires a bit more physical manipulation, which is why I prefer the previous technique ("My Favorite Technique").

"Traditional" and "Favorite" Techniques with Pill Popper

Many people are hesitant when it comes to the "dropping the pill down to the base of the tongue" part of pilling their cats, and understandably so! If you fear for the safety of your fingers, or your kitty is simply a pro at preventing you from placing the pill far enough inside their mouth, then the pill popper may quickly become your favorite new acquisition. The pill popper is a long, thin plastic tube with a rubber tip on one end and a stylet inside of it.

Place the pill inside the rubber tip.

Use either technique to open your cat's mouth, and then gently insert the pill popper into your cat's mouth and push the stylet. The stylet handle is on the opposite end of the pill popper from the rubber tip and, when pushed, it pops the pill out of the rubber tip and into your cat's mouth.

Notes on All Three Techniques

It takes practice to gain the confidence required to pop the pill all the way to the base of the tongue in your cat's mouth! It is normal to feel slightly skittish about sticking your fingers so far in there, but the more you practice, the less frightening it will seem, and you will quickly come to appreciate why the pills must be placed all the way back there; they will not be spat out! So don't worry if pilling your kitty doesn't come naturally at first... both you and your cat will grow accustomed to the routine with time and practice.

Step IV: Water to Swallow the Pill

Now that the pill is successfully (hopefully!) at the back of your cat's mouth, place your left hand back underneath their chin and apply gentle upward pressure. Your cat's jaw must remain parallel to the floor because if your cat gets their head down, they can spit out their pill more easily.

With the lower jaw held gently closed, and their head parallel to the floor or slightly upturned, pill expulsion is less likely to occur.

With your right hand, grasp the filled water syringe, and gently place the tip between your cat's lips. The syringe tip does not actually need to be forced into the oral cavity between your cat's teeth.

Simply depress the plunger gently with the tip of the syringe resting on the lower lip, and your cat will do the rest and swallow it, rather than allow the water to dribble all over their impeccable fur!

Notes on Water Administration

My personal preference is to use 3 ml syringes. Some people prefer the 1 ml syringes rather than the slightly bulkier 3 ml syringes.

The syringe tip which is placed between the lips should always be small and unobtrusive. If the tip is bulky, your cat may resist its presence.

Syringe tip shape, length, and width may vary somewhat depending on the brand and size of the syringe.

One of my favorite tricks is to use teat canulas on the ends of my water syringes! Teat canulas are meant for cow udders. Teat canulas are thin, flexible, elongated plastic tips that can be placed on the ends of the syringes... they are smaller, longer, and softer than the tips of the syringes, so they make great extension tips for giving water or liquid medications orally to cats!

I generally administer the entire syringe-full of water when giving pills, even if my kitty has already swallowed the pill down after the initial depression of the plunger.

It is far better to administer a little more water than necessary than not quite enough!

It's essential that you have enough water-filled syringes present in case you need extra!

Sometimes even the best of pill administrators flub up, so it's handy to be near a water bowl with which you can refill your syringes in case the first pill was expelled and a new pill needs to be given!

You can encourage your cat to swallow the pill by using your right hand to gently stroke your cat's throat - this stimulates the swallowing reflex.

Step V: After the Pilling Procedure has been Completed

After your cat has successfully swallowed the pill(s), give lots of praise, cuddles, and some of their favorite treats, so that they make a positive association with the event.

In time, it is possible that your cat may even come running on cue (or, at the very least, won't run away!) when they hear the medication cupboard being opened, or the pills rattling in the pill vial, because they know that there will be tasty treats coming their way post-medication!

Common Kitty Medicating Mistakes:

Pills

Do NOT mix your cat's medication into their food for several reasons:

Many medications taste unpleasant, and typically the flavor of the medication in your cat's food will simply turn them off of a food that they previously enjoyed.

Putting the pill in food or crushing it and mixing it into food is a very unreliable manner of medicating your cat, unless you are then immediately syringing it as a slurry into your cat's mouth.

If you have other pets in the house, they may end up ingesting the medication and it may not be safe for the other pets in your home.

Liquids

Do not EVER place your cat in dorsal recumbency in order to administer liquid medications - ie. do not cradle your cat like a baby in order to syringe liquid into their mouth! This position makes it difficult for cats to swallow properly, and makes it very easy for them to aspirate the administered liquid into their lungs, instead of swallowing it down their esophagus. I have seen cats suffer from aspiration pneumonia as a result of liquid medications being administered in this manner.

Administer liquid medications the same way you would administer the water post-pill placement. Push the plunger slowly and gently, allowing your cat ample time to swallow the liquid. Keep your left hand (or your right hand if you are left-handed) under their chin in order to keep it closed, and ensure that the jaw is parallel to the floor so that they do not spit or drool out the liquid.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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How to take care of a kitten

Don't let the cuteness of a new kitten baby fool you, these lovable critters can be a lot of work. Kittens are normal with the weaning period of 12 weeks of age, so you should not be bringing home a kitten who is younger than 12 weeks. A healthy kitten will pink ears, pink gums, and clear eyes. Keep your kitten healthy while it is increasingly an important part of a cat who will live a long and healthy life.

Just like any pet, young kittens need some guidance. Allowing a kitten roaming around the House doing what he wants would only result in frustration and made both your kitten begin acclimating to your new home as soon as possible. In principle, a kitten should have its own small space as part of a kitchen, a bathroom, or even a spare bedroom or den. Fill in this room with the kitten: a framework for bedding, food, water, and toys. This will keep the kitten who captured, while also begins to teach what we love in a litter.

If you have other pets or children at home, you'll want to gradually to the kitten kitten after presenting evidence that is comfortable in her new environment. Pay particular attention to the kitten, leaving only over a long period and be given many liberal and love. Ultimately, you're a new parent. A break helps the kitten build muscles and develops a strong bond between you and the kitten. Also, make sure that no one else living in the home plays with kitten when they are young so that it begins to form ties with all members of the family.

Once your kitten is comfortable in his room, you can start to make little training. Litter box training is important, and starting this training at a young age will only help the kitten and save you the trouble of cleaning carried out around the House. Spending too much time with your kitten, especially after you eat and drink, will allow us to know when your kitten will be doing the activities. If you see that your kitten to urinate, gently lift and place the litter tray or frame bedding set. A kitten with rewards and praise when it handles the litter box uses to encourage the repeating behavior.

You can also find your kitten used to ski while young. This will lead to a much easier time down the road when your adult cat should be groomed. Brush your kitten of fur and teeth regularly so you are comfortable with this kind of touch. You can touch your paws kittens also many that gets used to touching paw nail clipping and other future funding.

The key to the growth of a happy and healthy kitten is ensuring that they are comfortable in your new home, and that you have enough time playing, funding and training the new kitten. Your kitten will grow up in no time, and you'll have a fun and lovable cat if you put in the time and effort when it comes to young people.

Alison wood is a co-founder and managing partner of Woodmors.com, a new commercial/informational site offers an array of products and ideas for everyday life. For more articles about cat care, pet related interviews and reviews, visit == >> http://www.woodmors.com/cats

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Treating cats with Heartworm disease

It is important for the domestic-use heartworm medicine for cats to avoid the occurrence of disease. Heartworm disease is very dangerous and can even be life-threatening. When the heartworms have developed enough, they can live inside the heart. This disease usually seen in dogs. However, cats can also get this disease. The parasite known as heartworm, Dirofilaria, or derived from a mosquito bite. The saliva of the mosquito larvae, has injected into the bloodstream. They can be incubated for a while. Parasites must go through many stages before they develop into adult a worm. Take about six months for the condition to get worse. The worms burrow themselves into the tissues of the cat. However, a by-product called microfilariae, which travels in the blood stream. This makes it easier for vets to diagnose. A simple blood test is required.

The heart of the cats is significantly smaller than that of a dog. Why are at greater risk for heartworm disease. A worm could prove fatal. It is important that every cat owner knows the symptoms of the disease, so that their cat to the VET as necessary. If you notice that your cat has been coughing and has less power than usual, it could be the first symbol. Anemia and bloody sputum cytology are also symptoms of the disease. Because these are symptoms and other diseases, can be quite difficult to differentiate from others.

There are several types of treatment available for cats with heartworm disease. Your veterinarian can manage the heartworm medicine for cats. However, you should never provide any form of medication to your cat without consulting the VET first. Some drugs may not be appropriate for some cats, and can cause serious side effects. The best way to combat the heartworms is still prevention.

Revolution is one of the best preventative heartworm medicine for cats. It is a timely solution, and is not invasive. Also works on other parasites like intestinal worms and fleas, ear mites. All you need is an effective product for all of these complications. The product should be applied once a month to the skin behind the neck or shoulder blades. The medication is able to kill and eliminate both heartworms larvae phase. Furthermore, both cats and dogs for various parasitic diseases can use. It also kills adult fleas and flea eggs. This solution is very effective maintenance to prevent all kinds of complications from parasites.

Before attempting any heartworm medicine for cats, make sure to consult a veterinarian first. I know, that is right for your cat. A complete medical history may be required to ensure that your cat will not have any adverse reactions to any of the medicines. Also, this will ensure that your cat heartworm disease is not serious. In some cases, may require specific types of medicinal products aimed at the adult heartworms.

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What is it with cats and heights?

Ever wonder why your cat is able to land on its feet almost every time he or she falls or jumps from seemingly all heights? Ever wonder why cats are able to survive falls from 10+ stories with barely any scratches and yet cats that fall from lesser heights such as 4 stories often sustain fatal, or near-fatal, injuries? Have you heard the term 'high-rise syndrome' applied to cats and wondered what it meant? Do you wonder what you can do to protect your cat from heights? Let's explore this fascinating and important topic!

How are cats able to consistently land on their paws when they fall?

Cats have an innate ability to right themselves in mid-air when they fall from an inverted position. This is usually referred to as the 'righting reflex' but is also known as the 'labyrinthine reflex' and occasionally is also categorized as a 'neck righting reflex.' The term righting reflex is actually a bit misleading because it infers that there is one reflex that is triggered when a cat falls, when in actuality, there is a sequence of reflexes that take place in order for the end result to be that the cat lands on its paws. The combination of reflexes that compose the sum effect of the righting reflex are: the labyrinthine righting reflexes, the optic righting reflexes, body righting reflexes, and cervical righting reflexes.

When cats fall they gather information from their vestibular system, which contains the labyrinth of the inner ear and is responsible for equilibrioception, or, in other words, is responsible for spatial orientation and balance. They also gather visual information to help them assess what direction is up and what direction is down, and, with a combination of other sensory input, and their flexible spines and rudimentary collarbones, cats are able to quickly orient and right themselves. Cats begin to develop this reflex at about 3-4 weeks, and it is typically functioning at 7 weeks of age.

How are cats able to survive falls from great heights?

There are multiple factors that enable cats to sustain fewer injuries from particular heights in comparison with humans. Cats are relatively small and light, have flexible spines, thick fur, and they reach a much slower terminal velocity relative to humans. The terminal velocity that a falling cat reaches is the constant speed at which they fall when they have reached their maximal acceleration and are no longer gaining velocity. Cats reach a terminal velocity of approximately 100 km//hr, whereas humans reach a terminal velocity of approximately 210 km/hr, and, fortunately for cats, they reach their terminal velocity at a height around 5 stories, whereas humans tend to reach terminal velocity at a height of around 32 stories.

Cats employ their excellently developed righting reflexes, and once they reach their terminal velocity their vestibular systems are less stimulated, and instead of maintaining rigid body posture, they relax. Once cats reach this more relaxed state, they spread their limbs horizontally to increase drag in the air, and to more evenly distribute the forces of their impact when they hit the ground.

Studies have shown that cats that fall from heights greater than 5 stories are better able to survive because they are able to employ the above survival techniques. Cats tend to sustain more serious injuries when they are not able to reach terminal velocity and relax. That said, cats can receive fatal injuries when they fall from any height, and every fall has the potential to be traumatic or even deadly.

What is "High-Rise Syndrome"?

High-rise syndrome is the term used when cats fall from heights greater than 2 stories, including the injuries sustained from the fall. Unfortunately, despite the fact that high-rise syndrome is 100% preventable, it is seen very commonly in the veterinary industry, particularly during summer months when owners open windows and leave balcony doors open.

High-rise syndrome frequently involves chest trauma such as bruised lungs, pneumothoraxes (air trapped in the chest cavity from lacerated airway tissues), and broken ribs. Frequently there are fractures to limbs, and sometimes spinal fractures. High-rise syndrome frequently causes traumatic myocarditis, which is injury sustained by the heart. Oro-facial trauma is common and can include a fractured jaw, fractured skull, fractured teeth, and fractured palate. One of the scariest components of high-rise syndrome is the damage that is much less visibly obvious - damage to organs of the abdominal cavity. Cats that fall from heights frequently suffer from bruised and bleeding organs such as liver, spleen, and kidneys, and can even have these organs rented, or avulsed, from their locations within the abdominal cavity.

What can you do to secure your cat's safety from heights?

Secure all windows! Cats are notorious for jumping/falling out of windows! They are easily stimulated by birds flying by, bugs, and other attractive stimuli. Even if you live in a house in which the highest window is two stories above ground, it is still essential to ensure the windows have very secure screens in place. As you now know, cats are more prone to suffering greater injuries when they fall from lesser heights than those that fall from greater heights (6 stories and above).

Fence in balconies all balconies! Balconies are another cause for "high-rise syndrome." Just because a balcony is high does not mean that your cat will not jump or fall off of it - loud noises or construction may startle them so that they reflexively back away off of the railing or between the railings, or a bird flying past can create a great enough stimulus that they leap for it without thinking twice about how high up the balcony is. Balconies should be fenced from the ground to the bottom of balcony above so that jumping off is an impossibility - there are many types of aesthetic fencing options available that will pass most building standards because they are visually unobtrusive. Also, consider using a harness and leash while allowing your cat on the balcony - supervision and restraint are the most certain methods of ensuring your cats safety.

Do not use childproof window guards since cats can fit through them.

What should you do if your cat sustains a fall?

If your cat has fallen from any height (even a single story!) it is imperative that you bring to your veterinarian immediately. Symptoms of internal damage may not become obvious to you at home immediately, and by the time they do, it may be too late to effectively help your cat. There is much that your veterinarian can detect from a physical exam that you will be unable to assess at home by simple observation of your cat, and early intervention and supportive care will be crucial to your cat's survival. Even if your cat is eating, drinking, and acting altogether 'normal,' it is still best to have your cat checked out by your vet! Cats have high survival rates when they receive immediate veterinary treatment post-fall.

To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

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